Sunday, January 4, 2009

Recap: Overrated/underrated

I want to do a few more recap posts, hopefully before I head back to Georgetown in 2 days (!!) but that seems unlikely because I have a million things to do, including setup my new computer (this one has a video card problem, and due to my awesome warranty, they sent me a new one), pack for move-in, apply for internships, see friends and get my life together. It's a really daunting task. But before I do that, here's a description of some of the more famous places I've been. Most of these are places you have heard of before, and thus you have heard something about them that either inflates their grandeur or fails to capture just how cool they actually are. In no particular order:

Forbidden City: Overrated

The former exclusive grounds of the Emperors of many dynasties are huge and right in the center of Beijing, just up from Tiananmen Square. It's as if long ago, the rulers founded this city, laid out this big walled complex, and told everyone else to build around them. And the grounds are huge, over 175 acres, surrounded entirely by a 26 foot wall, although that didn't keep the Mongolians, the Manchurians or Mulan out. Maybe it was because our tour guide was underwhelming, but when I snuck into a trip here with the CIEE study abroad program, I was like yes, this place is big and the architecture's kinda cool, but there's really nothing special in here. There is no one building of note where everyone gets their picture taken. There's a bunch of statues and cauldrons but none are iconic. It's a large complex where a lot of people, including some important ones, used to live. I could go to Malibu or the Hamptons for that. Also, when we went there basically was no sky.

The Collosseum: Overrated

As kind of a foil to the Forbidden City, the Colosseum is very iconic and superbly picturesque from both the exterior as well as the interior. The size, the overabundance of arches and the age of the site all do inspire awe, but the history of the arena is lost. Once again, my tour guide for this left a lot to be desired, so maybe the real moral of the story is do your own research, or get a good tour guide. But I expected to walk on the blood of gladiators, sit on the seats in which Roman citizens sat on 2000 years ago and really picture what life was like in one of the earlier stadiums of the world. However, the Colosseum feels much more like an archaeological site. The place used to be decked out in marble, but apparently the Romans recycled their marble a lot, so much of it was taken to be used elsewhere in the city, and the majority of the rest was plundered by invaders. There are no seats anymore so it's difficult to imagine yourself there rooting for a man against a lion. Really, the true value of the Colosseum is as an architectural marvel, and it is a testament to Roman architects that it is still standing. So along with the nearby Forum, there are a lot of functional, large structures that are older than almost all other buildings in the world. That is indeed very cool and worth appreciating, but they aren't necessarily going to be that good looking, especially up close, and they've suffered so much damage that it's really not possible to picture what they looked like in all their glory.

St. Vitus' Cathedral: Underrated

I've said this before: I've now seen many of the world's greatest and most famous cathedrals, and St. Vitus' Cathedral in Prague is right up there with the best of them. I guess Notre Dame de Paris is objectively "better" but I think the reasons that St. Vitus' is not on par in terms of name recognition with Notre Dame, Westminster Abbey or St. Peter's Basilica is because a) it was only completed in 1929 and not as historically significant b) because it's surrounded by a castle and really not too impressive from a distance and c) it's in Prague, which was in the Soviet Bloc for many years and has only in the last 2 decades emerged as a major tourism destination. But it's beautifully made, designed by Peter Parler, a master builder who also created Prague's most famous structure, the Charles Bridge. The flying buttresses are superb and ornate and the front facade is stunning. The only problem with the outside is the green roofs, which I found downright fugly - they should have been black or red. The interior is even better though, with some of the world's greatest stain glass that my camera just does not do justice.

The Sistine Chapel: Overrated

The whole Vatican City, of which the Sistine Chapel is the most famous part, is a sovereign state, a UN world heritage site, the capital of Catholicism and a must-see all at once. However, I believe the Sistine Chapel, which more people have heard of than the Vatican, is just slightly overrated. It's the last stop of the Vatican City museum, the world's largest museum in terms of sheer gallery space I believe, and supposedly Michaelangelo's greatest feat. In a way, it might be the most unique and famous room in the world. The Chapel is gigantic, and that iconic ceiling is really high up and you wonder how anyone could have ever painted it. Art aficionados will appreciate the work and understand Biblical imagery and how each panel tells a different story, and "imaginers" like me will enjoy picturing Michaelangelo standing on scaffolding (that he built himself) with a giant paintbrush drawing this giant image, with paint dripping down his eyes and a Pope breathing down his neck. And little kids will appreciate how colorful the place is. It certainly is an awe-inspiring room. However, the experience of being there on a given tour inspires more frustration than awe. Everyone tries to take pictures, stealthily holding their face-up cameras low by their pockets, trying to seem inconspicuous, and the Italian guards know all these and exasperatedly scold, "No picture" every 10 seconds. The place is crowded, packed with people craning their necks up, and you want to sit down because you've had a long walk through the museum, but there aren't too many seats and when are you sitting down you don't have a good view of the ceiling. In addition, the art is just too far away to really appreciate it. But here's the biggest reason why the Sisten Chapel is overrated: the art isn't among Michaelangelo's best! He kinda rushed through it, the details and strokework isn't as nice as it would be on a smaller piece, and most importantly, while he was one of the best painters of all time, Michaelangelo considered himself a better sculptor. Which leads me to...

The Statue of David: Underrated

...his best sculpture. This statue is very famous and I've seen pictures like this many times, including in my 9th grade Western Civ class. Despite its fame, most people probably don't know a lot of basic facts about it. I for one did not know that the statue is in Florence, that it was not originally started by Michaelangelo (it had been abandoned by two previous artists and left to the elements outside), that the pose is likely of a serene David preparing for battle or just after his victory, or that this statue is actually 17 feet tall. Almost all the photos you see do not show the true scale of the statue, and if you were expecting a lifesize sculpture like I was, the real result is overwhelming. More educated art scholars than I have said that once you see the David, you need not see any more sculptures. It is the ultimate piece, the perfection that art strives for. Now I don't know a lot about art, but I can appreciate a masterpiece when I see one. When I go to a museum, I know to examine a painting pretty thoroughly before moving on, because the artist put so much into it, you just can't take a glance and get anything out of it. And I go on like this for a few rooms, before I realize I've been there for a half hour, my legs are getting tired, the pictures are all great and unique but starting to seem the same and I just breeze through the rest of the rooms. This was how I started out in the Accademia Gallery, which is really quite a small museum in an unobtrusive corner of Florence. There really is nothing special about this building, in a city of special buildings, that would tell you the great sculpture in the world is inside it. So I stroll along through the museum, wondering when I'll get to the David, until I entered its room and bam, there's 17 feet of flawless marble humanity. Every single part of his body seems real, and unlike most sculptures, it's in the middle of the room and not up against the wall, allowing for a full 360 degree examination of it and seeing how Michaelangelo really didn't leave any spot unpolished. This is something you don't get with his Pieta in the Vatican, which is on the side of a church, a good deal smaller, and surrounded by a thick pane of glass.

The Berlin Wall: Overrated

I think the existence of the Berlin Wall is fascinating. Such a base concept of separating free people from themselves was firmly institutionalized as of 30 years ago, and the Berlin Wall is the greatest symbol of that. Much of the wall was put together overnight and suddenly divided friends and family, and stayed there for 18 years. Still though, it really is just cheap concrete that's less interesting than the graffiti that's been painted on it. So much of the wall has been torn down that once again, it's really impossible to see from the remains what a divided Berlin looked like. The Wall actually was two walls that created a corridor of no man's land, and this fact is not apparent at all unless you have a tour guide or know your history. In addition, it seems everyone has a piece of the wall on sale - I have a piece about the size of a thumbprint. It's kinda cool, but really it's just an ugly piece of broken stone that could be anything. So the historical concept of the Berlin Wall is great, but the existing displays are pretty insignificant.

The Great Wall of China: Underrated

It's difficult for me to call the Great Wall underrated because it's rated so highly. But when I went there for a second time this summer, I was wowed again. Even though all of the parts that you can walk on have been reconstructed, everything does seem authentic and old, which is kinda the theme with China. But even if you accept that you're standing on 20th century stonework, the unending view of Wall snaking over mountain ridges is pretty spectacular and unreplicable. It's a fairly arduous climb just getting to the Great Wall, unless you wuss out and take a tram, and an even more difficult climb once you get there. Some parts of the wall are so steep you wonder how anyone could have ever walked there, especially an armored soldier. While the Wall extends to the ocean, it is not a continuous stretch, but rather containing several disparate pieces and many more in ruins. Regardless, along with the surrounding green mountains, the Great Wall is gorgeous and one of the most picturesque places I've ever been.

Giant's Causeway: Underrated

I've talked about the only UN World Heritage site in Ireland (technically in Northern Ireland) in a previous post, so I'll only do a quick gloss through here. The Causeway is this geological perplexity formed by the cooling of magma from a volcanic eruption. For some reason, this magma broke off into flat hexagons of differing heights, and 50 million years later, we have this rather bizarre formation extending from the beautiful Irish coast.

The Leaning Tower of Pisa: Underrated

Pisa was not a destination I had planned on my 4 day jaunt through Italy. The only reason I stopped there was because the nearest airport to Florence was in Pisa, so I got off the train one stop early and walked across town until I saw a big tower. I FULLY expected it to be overrated, to just be an insignificant structure in an insignificant town that gets swamped with visitors just because the architect of this tower screwed it up. And then I got up close to it and I realized, wow, this thing leans a lot. I'm not going to put it into numbers how lopsided it is, but just believe me, when you're right up against it, you really do wonder how the tower remains standing. It's actually an architectural achievement for the thing to remain upright and support visitors, despite sliding that much in mud. In addition, while the town isn't going to blow you away, it is a very nice, pleasant Italian city, and the piazza around the Leaning Tower is really cool. I had never heard that there was a great church and this cool dome right next to the tower. So yes, maybe you don't want to book a week in Pisa Also, I got a great crepe with nutella in Pisa.

The Main Square of Krakow: Underrated

This isn't as well known as the other sites on my list, but it's another UN World Heritage site and one of the main reasons for visiting Krakow. The oldest medieval town square in Europe, the size would be more impressive if the cloth hall in this picture wasn't in the middle of it. Nonetheless, the cloth hall is actually a really cool and pretty structure, and there's plenty of space around it. Almost all of these European cities I visited had old town squares because that's how marketplaces setup and led to these places becoming major cities. I like them a lot because they're always a fun public place, with lots of tents and stands set up selling cheap goods or making nice food. These would be setup on street corners in the US and often just get in the way. A square is definitely the better home for street vendors. Oh also, this square has nice cathedrals and towers on the side, including the trumpeter's tower, whose hourly broken-off melody I've already talked about.

Guinness Factory: Overrated

This is perhaps the place in Dublin that most people think when they think traveling to Dublin - I always got asked, "Have you been to the Guinness Factory?" And for most of the time, I hadn't, and they were some really good times. I finally went the day before my last exam and while I enjoyed it, it really is an overrated experience. And this is coming from one of the biggest fans of Guinness. I love dark beer and I've never had any dark beer better than the Guinness I got from the pubs in Dublin. So it was kind of cool to visit the factory, get my picture taken in front of St. Jame's Gate, but ever since they stopped actually brewing Guinness beer there, the place has become nothing more than a museum, and not one filled with great art. The inside, which you can see in this picture, is shaped like a beer mug and there's this nice Gravity Bar at the top with a 360 panoramic view of the city, quite possibly the best view of Dublin around. Your ticket gives you a free beer at this bar, but that's it, you can't buy a pint there, so it doesn't really fulfill my definition of a bar (a place where one can pay money to get drunk). The Guinness Factory might be one of the most touristy places I went to this entire year.

There are some less famous sites that I think are very underrated and definitely worth a visit. Tops on this list would be the Aran Islands off the west coast of Ireland, the town of Oxford and its famous colleges, and the old town in Stockholm. There are also some concepts and things that are overrated or underrated.

Central European Cooking: Underrated.

One of the best meals I had was in a traditional homestyle Polish restaurant, and the street food we got in Berlin and Prague, mostly variations of sausages, were all extremely satisfactory. However, if you're worried about cholesterol or don't like oil, they are not for you.

Underrated Traveling Skills: (in no particular order)
1) Holding it in. When you're out and about in places where you don't know, and potentially drinking beers, it really sucks if you're always frantically on the prowl for a bathroom, walking around the street like a penguin. My friend Greg Speidel can attest to the problems caused by a small bladder. This can be potentially inflate to a serious problem if you're so desperate you pee in public and get arrested. Just something to be aware of.

2) Balancing on a bus. Or a subway car. Using public transportation is generally a part of the life of anyone who ever grew up around a city. Still, so many people cannot balance well on a moving bus or train and it can be really embarrassing when you roll 10 feet while the people sitting down look on with amused sympathy.

3) Taking good photos. There's a lot that goes behind a picture, and you'll thank yourself months later for taking the time to setup a good frame of that last shot of the Eiffel Tower while everyone was screaming at you to go. But don't be like my dad, who's probably spent about a quarter of his life taking pictures. Actually, this skill isn't underrated at all, everyone knows to take pictures.

4) Sense of direction. It can be a little overwhelming to wake up from a long train or bus ride, roll your eyes open, and then look into a vast and unfamiliar city. Then when you're walking from place to place through these European streets that rarely make any sense, it's very good to be able to keep landmarks and a mental compass in mind and to internalize maps. I had a friend with a notoriously poor sense of direction, and she was afraid to travel alone because of it.

5) Sense of adventure. I really believe you can't live life well if you don't take risks, and this is especially apparent in traveling. I can't stand people that aren't willing to go off the beaten path, habitually eat at McDonald's and generally keep a xenophobic demeanor even within a foreign country. Don't travel to just observe a country, travel to experience it.

Friday, January 2, 2009

Recap: The Numbers

2008 was a great year. A hell of a year. How much of a year? Well let's roll out some numbers:
(as always, all stats according to Wikipedia)

11,940,000 - Population of Beijing proper
680,000 - Population of Boston proper
588,000 - Population of Washington, DC proper
505,000 - Population of Dublin proper
7,811 - Population of Monaghan
105 - Nights in DC
89 - Nights in Dublin
74 - Nights in Beijing
39 - Nights in Newton
28 - Cities I spent the night in
16 - States in the US that I visited, including the District of Columbia
16 - UN World Heritage Sites that I visited
13 - Countries I visited, including a few of arguable sovereign status (Hong Kong, Northern Ireland, Scotland, Vatican City)
12 - Institutions of higher learning I was significantly exposed to, including attending Georgetown and UCD, staying at Bowdoin, Brown and near Edinburgh and 北京大学
11 - Olympic events I attended
10 - Capitals of these countries I visited, not including Vatican City and Hong Kong
9 - States that I stayed in
8 - Languages which were the primary language of a country I visited, and I said thank you in all of them
8 - Currencies used (actual prize in one of these currencies if someone can name all of them)
6 - Patriots games I watched, including 3 from last year's playoffs and 3 from this year's squad. Unfortunately I will not be watching any of their playoff games this year. Thanks for nothing Brett Favre.
4 - Cell phones I used
3 - Continents I visited
3 - Heartbreaking losses for me (Super Bowl 42, Davidson on Easter, Red Sox-Devil Rays game 7)
1 - Presidential elections that I voted in

I've kept pretty good record of this year and looking back on them, it still amazes me how much occurred, both personally and globally, in 2008. For example, I went to Las Vegas to play an ultimate tournament and had a ridiculous time, I got my roommate to believe he had chlamydia on April Fool's and I went to an out of control Anything But Clothes party and returned with everything but my wallet. I was abandoned by my second cousin Parissa during a drunken night at Bowdoin and I rescued my cousin Justin during his drunken night in Hong Kong. I ate dog meat, met a German professional poker player who had recently married an 8 months pregnant Chinese girl, sprained my ankle, mistakenly drank 4 or 5 Long Island Iced teas in one night, and met an American Olympic wrestler. I briefly faced homelessness in London, hung off a cliff with a 100 meter sheer drop, spoke Chinese to get around in Florence, and blew a bunch of euros to get drunk in a pub with some Australians. When you're young, a lot does happen in a year and this past year was 5% of my life. Every year brings in a lot of change, again both personally and globally, but personal change happens only from life experience, life experience does not come linearly. Life experience comes when you do things you've never done before, when you see things you've never seen before, when you find yourself in positions that you never could have imagined before and you learn from it all. It can come from meeting new friends, from working jobs, from reading books, from picking up new hobbies or from experiencing personal tragedy. For me this year, I gained a lot of life experience, which was really limited during my high school days, through traveling. Traveling formed this blog, has led me to taking 2600 new photos, cost me a ton of cash, and really freaking opened up my perspective.

Even before I went to China and Ireland, I had traveled within the US moreso than I normally would. Frisbee tournaments had brought me to Las Vegas and Savannah. The trip down to Georgia, coupled with a drive up to visit my cousin in Maine meant that I passed through every single state on the east coast except for Florida. In addition, I was a little surprised when I returned to the US, turned on my Verizon cell and was greeted with a picture of the Southern California coast that I had taken when I visited Charlie in Irvine.

My travels have been restricted to the Northern Hemisphere, but I went as north as Stockholm, which is 59 degrees north, and as far south as Savannah, at 32 degrees. I was over 10,000 feet above sea level in Yunnan province, and probably about 100 feet under sea level in either the DC, London, Hong Kong or Stockholm subways. I've passed over the Charles River, the Potomac, the Thames, the Yangtze, the Liffe, Lake Malaren, Hong Kong Harbor, the Tiber, the Arno, the Spree, the Vltava, the Vistula and the Hudson. I have this Excel spreadsheet that has documented where and when I've been this year, and according to it, I have changed locations 54 times. My longest continuous stay in one place was a 42 day stretch in Beijing. The longest I ever stayed in Dublin was just 20 days. It's been a year of barely relenting packing and unpacking, and a plethora of trains, planes and buses. I've now been to 29 different countries, including all the countries in Western Europe excluding the microstates, Denmark, Switzerland and Norway. I now know who Wenceslaus, Jenny Lind, Joe McDonnell, Zhang Yimou, Norman Bethune, Robbie Keane and Filippo Brunelleschi are, all names which are common knowledge in various parts of the world. Furthermore, I've learned a new language and a new accent.

So these numbers and facts are pretty neat and all, but it doesn't really tell a story. The real story is deeply personal, which is odd because traveling can be so public. When you're visiting new cities, you're out and about more than ever, seeing crowded tourist spots and spending minimal time inside. But when you're living abroad, you soon realize that you can't be a tourist for very long and that you have to do a lot of the boring home stuff that you normally do. And it's really when you buy groceries, take the public transportation, go shopping, check out different bars and talk to people that you realize how life is actually different in different places. I have been privilged to have traveled a lot when I was younger on my parents watch, but I really didn't appreciate it all enough. This year was the first time I had ever lived abroad though, and I did my best to make sure that I would appreciate it all. There's still a lot of stuff in every place I went that I wish I had done, but I left each place very satisfied with my experience there. Really I did not have a single bad trip - maybe Italy was the worst. When I left Beijing, I realized that those were the best times of my life, and that everything upcoming really would be downhill, and that was a very sad but accurate realization. Even though it feels like I've been gone for an eternity, I wasn't in either Dublin nor Beijing long enough to really understand what it means to be Irish or Chinese. I'm not an anthropology expert and I really don't even know if my impressions of the countries and their peoples are really accurate. I can just relay my own genuine experiences and most importantly, that I think I now understand what it means to be American, at least from my perspective. I've learned how I am simulatenously incredibly unique and overwhelmingly unremarkable. A million different events and experiences have brought me to where I am today, but the path I have walked down, incredible and difficult though it may seem, has been trod by so many people like me before me. It's pretty humbling.

This summer in Beijing, I realized that being Chinese-American has almost nothing in common with being Chinese Chinese. When you're surrounded by other people like you, in a society run by people like you, there's not a whole lot of space for stereotypes. In addition, I realized I came into the country with stereotypes for the people there, with a Western-biased view for how society should be run. I expected to find an overpopulation of dirty, spitting people tightly controlled by the government who didn't know how great the democracy they were missing was. Now I leave with an understanding that yes, there are too many people in China. There always have been, but that has shaped the way that country's identity. Our way of life, our way of government, our way of trade, simply cannot work in China at this moment in time. I leave with an understanding of fierce Chinese pride, respect for the grittiness unity of the general populace, and while I shed a tear for the marginalized individual freedoms and human rights in the country, I accept that they have resulted in a much more efficient and powerful country.

This semester in Europe, I've seen a counter image to my Asian experience. Instead of the sprawling, polluted megacities, I've walked through great cities that never exceed 7 stories tall and are still centered around the centuries-old town square. I've seen and studied a continent of incredible linguistic and cultural diversity, and realized that it's even more diverse and complicated than we assume. I've begun to understand how national pride differs throughout the world, but how so many different people can claim to live in the best country in the world. I've realized how cultural sports, holidays and celebrities are