Sunday, December 4, 2011

World athlete

I can't believe I haven't written about ultimate here yet. I've only written twice since I've moved to Hong Kong, which is pretty bad, but ultimate has been an immense part of my life here - more than it ever was in the states, which is hard to believe. Ultimate was only a part of my social life in the states, where I had friends from all sorts of school-related activities and other places.  Upon landing here, I really didn't have any friends right away and so I found the ultimate community right away, which is a great way to make 30-40 quick friends.  Ultimate on this continent is so great in so many ways, which might go counter to your expectations if you knew a little bit about ultimate.  After all, it is an American sport and many, many more people play it in the states.  In addition, unless you live in downtown Manhattan, field space is easier to get in virtually every American city than in Hong Kong, or most Asian cities. Even though it is very much a fringe sport, it's still relatively well known (at least people have somewhat heard of it) and it's  relatively easy to find a league or pickup. The top teams are extremely competitive, to the extent where I don't think an athlete like me could possibly make an elite club team.

In Asia, the obscurity of the sport serves to make the sport more fun, not less.  Spread by Americans, ultimate has invaded the rest of the world in some predictable ways.  Countries with strong US connections, like the UK and Australia, have very strong ultimate programs.  The top nations read somewhat like a G-8 summit, with Japan, Italy, Germany and Sweden also in the mix.  Locally, the community seems to be about 60% ex-pats (a lot of Canadians) and 40% local Hong Kong players, though quite a few of those have experience abroad.  The result is an interesting, diverse player base with vastly different experiences. However total, there are less than 200 active players here. The ultimate experience, which is a mixture of athletic and social everywhere you go, definitely leans more towards social in Asia.  A lot of this is because of the numbers - it's easier to get to know everyone that plays ultimate in the entire city. When you aren't playing against different strangers every week, you tend to become closer to your opponents.  In addition, for the ex-pat community, it is a chance to meet a lot of people also undergoing your similar experience, with a hobby in common to boot.  One surprising thing I discovered was that many of the ex-pat ultimate players learned to play in Asia, and not from their home countries like me.  They found the community here through friends and really clicked with it.  Even many more were just casual players back in North America but more serious here.

Teams here are weird and not exactly set.  There are many tournaments throughout Asia over the year, in places like Hong Kong, Manila, Bangkok, Shanghai, Jeju, Hanoi etc. Individuals decide on their own what tournaments they can attend, and then teams are formed based on the people who go.  Amazingly, you will see many of the same people from all over Asia at all these tournaments. Some former Asian ex-pats who have now moved home, often plan their vacations to return to Asia around these tournaments, playing in them with their old friends.  It's quite a scene.  You will see many teams of friends living in disparate cities who assemble at tournaments and form a team that has never practiced together.  Some of these teams not only compete but win tournaments.  In more casual tournaments in the US, this isn't entirely unheard of, but it's certainly rare.  The US tournament scene in addition is dominated by the club championship series.  Most club tournaments early in the season are opportunities for strong clubs to get experience playing together and to train for sectionals/regionals/nationals.  These are teams with tryouts, practices and identities.  Many teams here just have jerseys.

There is also the National Team scene.  In the US this doesn't enter the conversation very much, because the US is the best country in the world at ultimate. To make the team, you have to be absurdly great.  I've seen a lot of great players but I'm not sure any of them will be on the US team to World's 2012 in Sakai, Japan. Here in Asia, there are many countries, all theoretically with national teams, and a wide disparity in the talent between them. There are also relatively strict eligibility rules, limiting the number of foreigners a national team can have.  In Hong Kong, to be an eligible local, you don't need to have a HK passport (which I don't have), just a ID card with 3 stars (which I do have).  So through some very friendly rules, I was eligible for the Hong Kong National Team.  Though I'm still very much an average player in the states, a marginal club level handler, here I'm one of the best males.  I was one of the players selected to represent Hong Kong in the Asia Oceanic Ultimate Championships in Kaohsiung, Taiwan.

The AOUC occurred from Dec 1-4, and had an open (men's) division and a mixed division.  The countries in the open division were India, Singapore, Taiwan and Japan. In the mixed division we had Hong Kong, Singapore, Taiwan, Australia and Japan.  If you're surprised at the number of teams present, you should be. In all my time playing ultimate I've never been to a tournament with less than 8 teams - the average college tournament I went to had at least 24 open teams. With only 4 opponents, we played everyone twice. I think organizers were disappointed with the turnout, which was not an improvement over the exact same tournament held in 2007.  Traveling for this tournament is difficult and expensive, especially for the many countries in the region with a low GDP or visa restrictions.  Indonesia, Malaysia and the Philippines could have competed very well at this tournament, but probably could not afford to attend.  China had meant to send 2 teams but its players could not get visas. We even had a player who was born in Guangdong province, who though had been in Hong Kong for over 7 years, could not get his visa processed.  Only a first world country like Australia could send a team on 8 hour flights. Incidentally, this was India's first time at the tournament, but they were woefully underprepared.  The team did not have cleats and barely had forehands.  They scored 1 point all tournament.

At this point I will shift from informative to the old Cal travel diary story-telling style.  It should be a different blog post but no one reads this anyway.

I couldn't make the Thursday games because of work vacation time restrictions. So I flew in on my own Thursday night with the intention of playing Friday and Saturday, still with the opportunity to play all our opponents.  I was very excited all day, unable to sit still at the office.  However early in the day I got an email from DragonAir saying that my 7pm flight had been moved to 9:55pm due to "operational reasons."  I'd be getting into Kaohsiung after 11, which wasn't terrible but not ideal.  Whatever.  At the same time I'd been having difficulties with my phone. My American iPhone had been unlocked, but the unlocking was no longer working no matter how many times I repeated the procedure. My Uncle Andrew, who apparently travels with at least 4 cell phones, had given me his 2 year old spare and so I put my pin into that one.  However, some point in the last 2 years, the phone's touch screen had gone haywire and it now reacted terribly. I could not type at all and half the time I pressed anything, it made a call. I also could not turn it off without taking out the battery.  So I'm extremely frustrated with all this phone stuff, but I throw it all in my bag and worry about it later - after all I'm going to a foreign country where I won't have service anyways. I Google our lodgings in Taiwan - the Kindness Hotel, and check it out on a map and write down its name in Chinese.  I wrote down the number, I saw that it wasn't too far from the airport and near a subway, etc.

DragonAir website said my 7 o'clock flight was cancelled.  I had been under the impression that it was delayed.  Still I had the email saying I was on the 9:55 one, so I hoped for the best and went to the airport early.  I had walked all the way down to the subway and was waiting for the cars when I realized I didn't have my cleat bag.  Absolute necessity.  Went back up and got it.  Whatever.  The subway trip to the airport took about 45 minutes including 2 annoying but manageable transfers. Airport security however had issue with my nail clipping scissors, which are important for ultimate tournaments.  Whatever, they're really blunt, but I'm here early so I'll go back and check them in.  Second time through security and emptying my pockets and laptop, they check my backpack again.  This time they discovered a mysterious sharp object in my bag. For the life of me I didn't know what it was.  They went through all my stuff before finding this thing I use to remove my studs in my cleats.  Completely harmless.  Sigh.  In a very pissy mood, I put all my clothes back into my backpack and glared at security.

I read The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo all the way through the flight and hopped out in Taiwan, excited to be in a new country for the first time in over a year.  After picking up my cleats, I confidently walked out to get a taxi, ready to pump out some Mandarin.  However after telling the taxi driver where I want to go, he looks at what I've written down, pauses for a minute, and then finally starts driving.  We're on the road for about 10 minutes when I happen to see a sign for the hotel on the side of the highway.  We keep driving though, and I get suspicious that this driver is trying to cheat me.  We drive another 10 minutes before I get uncomfortable and say I think we've gone too far.  We insists that we're going to the right way, to Kindness Hotel.  I tell him the address that I've written down and ask him what district we're in.  He's like "Huh? I thought we were going to this place." Oh you're kidding me.  He tells me there are like six Kindness Hotels in Kaohsiung.  Crap.  I order him to turn around and go to that street.  Very conscious of how tired and frustrated I am, the drive back to 福德街 seems to take forever.  He gets to the street and asks, "What now?"  I'm like "huh? Take me to no. 22."  At every street intersection he turns around to ask me what to do next.  At one point I snapped and said "THIS IS MY FIRST TIME IN TAIWAN! YOU'RE FROM HERE! YOU'RE THE TAXI DRIVER. YOU TAKE ME THERE."  I can't remember the last time I was this mad.

There was nothing at 22 FuDe street.  It was a completely empty narrow alley.  The driver turns around like "I told you so."  He told me there was a Kindness Hotel 4 blocks away, and I was like great! take me there.  We get there and I can't wait to get out.  I'd been very observantly watching the meter this whole time and it said 35.0.  I didn't know a thing about Taiwanese money or prices, just that it was less than Hong Kong, so I threw him a 100 dollar bill. He responded that it was actually $350, and with the airport fee, $400.  You've got to be kidding me.  This sounded like a lot - I didn't know then that this was about $10 USD.  I didn't want to argue though so I just gave him the cash and ran away.  I go straight to the concierge in a huff and say, "Room 715 please."  They respond at me with blank stares and say, "we don't have a room 715." What?? I show them my booking information, complete with the address and telephone number of the Kindness Hotel.  They tell me that I'm not at the right Kindness Hotel - there were 13 in total.  At that I threw my cleats bag on the ground as hard as I could.  They figured out which hotel I should have been at from the phone number, called me a cab and told the driver where to go.  At this point it was 12:20am.

Somewhere along the cab ride I started freaking out.  I had gotten my information about the hotel from Google - I had no idea at the time that there were 13 places with the same name. Everything I wrote down could have been inaccurate, including the phone number.  There was a chance I had copied the phone number from the tournament website, in which case it would be correct, but I wasn't sure.  I had no working phone, the only thing I could do was go to reception and ask to use the computer. I mentally readied myself to arrive at the wrong hotel and to get set for another half hour or so before I could sleep.  However, right when I landed and opened my taxi door, I heard someone exclaim, "Cal!" I looked up and saw my teammate Mary, and my goodness she could have been a vision of Mary mother of God at that moment.

Luck had it that our first game was at 10 and I had plenty of time to sleep.  I quickly noticed that, purely in terms of facilities, this would be unlike any tournament I had ever been to.  Nearly every tournament I'd ever been to, my team had driven up in crowded cars and stayed 6 to a room in some crappy motel, and played very early in the morning in some fields in the middle of nowhere. Here, we stayed at a 4 star-hotel, usually 3 to a room. The showers had separate soap and shampoo for men and women - we also had a bathtub.  The breakfast buffet consisted of more than bagels and frozen hard-boiled eggs, but instead had offerings ranging from toast to tofu, congee to cereal to ice cream.  Yes, ice cream with cereal.

All games were held at 3 stadia spread out over the city, including the Kaohsiung National Stadium which was built for the 2009 World Games.  I missed out on my chance to play there, which is a pretty special place with a dragon weaving design that hearkens to the Bird's Nest.  We had buses shuttling us to our venues.  It was a little weird, a little cool, playing in these giant stadiums with tons of empty seats surrounding us.  After the games, Taiwanese food was catered to us, which certainly beat the bananas and peanut butter bagels I was used to stateside.

 Host Taiwan was our first opponent.  Ultimate had caught on strong in Taiwan and the organization there took this tournament very seriously. Talent wise, the team was only slightly better than us, but they had played together A LOT more. Supposedly the team was composed largely of a university team, and they had been required to take 2 weeks off together and basically go to a training camp for the tournament.  Unheard of.  That makes a huge difference in ultimate, especially in Asia where tournaments often consist of pickup teams playing together for the first time.  After giving Taiwan a hard fight for the first half, our star Calvin left to fly back to Hong Kong for a work event.  We got rolled pretty good in the second half. We were never at full strength for the rest of the tournament, steadily dropping players.  

Australia is another regional power, predictable from its English-speaking ties to the US.  They had assembled their team by broadcasting a call for people capable of attending to put their names into a hat. A committee had then selected the players based on what they knew of them, getting input from people in different regions.  There were no tryouts.  The process, which I actually think was really good, created a team of mostly older players who could afford to take a vacation to Taiwan, and included two players, Kwang in Guangzhou and Sarz in Shenzhen, who were located in China.  They didn't play with great chemistry, but with a lot of veteran experience, they came together during the weekend.  They had some very talented females who were able to huck to each other over all the men for scores.  They beat us pretty good too.

Singapore was the one team we should have beat.  This Asian city-state is even smaller than our Asian city-state and has a Westerner dominated frisbee scene.  Still they managed to put together a talented young team with lots of athleticism and players willing to play defense. They made a lot of mistakes though and we went up 4-0 on them right away. Since we had lost by 3 the previous game, we needed to win by 4 to surpass Singapore in the standings. We were in position to do so at 9-6 when soft cap blew.  We scored to make it 10-6, game to 11.  When they made it 10-7, we knew that we had to win this next point.  Unfortunately we didn't catch a pull that ended deep in our end zone, and ended up turning the disc right on the goal line.  Just like that our dreams were squashed.  10-8 then became 10-9.  That point seemed to have been played out entirely within 20 yard of their end zone but through several blunders and a dropped layout by me, we failed to score.  On universe point, we drove right down to the end zone before dropping it.  They turned around and hucked it, and all I could do was stare as a lucky breeze blew the disc away from our defender into a Singaporean player in the end zone to win the game.  That was among the worst losses I have experienced.

The Japan team played us right after that.  It was my first time ever seeing the legendary Japanese players in person. Japan is a preeminent world power, with their top club team Buzz Bullets routinely beating the best American clubs and winning worlds.   With the upcoming 2012 worlds in Osaka, I think Japan should be favored.  They are renown almost mystically in the US for a disciplined, unorthodox style of play.  All of this was on display when we played them. Unfortunately we got rolled so hard (17-3) that I didn't even really get to see their full performance, but they were certainly impressive.  The team never relented, keeping great form even when there was no need for it.  A wide open Japanese cutter caught the disc at full speed, stopped and threw a low release flick just inches above the ground, with absolutely no one on her.  This was one of the better teams I had ever seen - the other tournament teams would have lost to most good club teams in the US.

Monday, October 24, 2011

Linguistic Notes


I know I’m a lot more interested in linguistics than just about everyone I know, and I’m brimming with anecdotes that may come off as extremely nerdy.  I'm also aware that this Chinese-intensive post is not relevant to all (both) my readers.  I do hope to impart some of the experiences that I really honestly find awesome, and maybe some of you will find linguistics cooler. Or maybe you’ll just realize I’m an even bigger nerd than you thought.

Background: Hong Kong is largely a trilingual city of English, Cantonese and Mandarin.  I am also trilingual in the same languages, and at a very different rate than the locals. The average local will speak Cantonese natively, understand most Mandarin but speak it by changing their speech in what usually amounts to a poor imitation.  The grasp of English varies widely but is generally pretty limited, especially in speaking ability.
I’m a native English and Cantonese speaker but that doesn’t mean the two languages are equal.  My Cantonese vocabulary was pretty confined to what would be spoken in a family home. I then studied Mandarin in college and lived in Beijing for two summers, where the Mandarin I developed was very utilitarian and colloquial.  The end result was that although the two languages are related, my grasp of Mandarin was actually very different from my grasp of Cantonese, and there was a slew of vocabulary that I only knew in one language and not the other, and would often have to do an awkward triangulation maneuver to figure out what to say.  I have since spent some effort improving my reading and have bridged the gap between the two languages.  Still, since I spent so much of my time speaking Cantonese while illiterate, there are many words which I could say without knowing what that meant.  This happens in English too.  Think about the word “skyscraper.” A student of English can learn that this word refers to very tall buildings – in Chinese this is just 大夏, or big building.  If you never saw the spelling, the word could be spelled scighskreper for all you knew.  You could conceivably understand the concept of a skyscraper, using it correctly in speech, without realizing the imagery in its etymology, a scraper of the sky. This etymology is also entirely self-contained within the English language, as opposed to a word like astrology, where the etymology derives from foreign languages: astra (Latin: star) + logos (Greek: knowledge).
So my Chinese experience has been riddled with these realizations.  The most shocking to me was cha siu 叉烧, the delicious barbecued pork that I’ve loved my whole life.  Never in the first ten thousand times I said this word did I realize what it literally meant. I think I even learned to read it in Beijing and knew that the second word siu meant barbecue.  I figured cha was some arcane word for pork.  It wasn’t until one day randomly on Wikipedia that I read that cha actually meant fork.  That is also a word I’ve said countless times, like in 刀叉 (knife and fork), but I guess I rarely had to read it.  Turns out cha siu is made by roasting the pork on a large two pronged fork. I had probably eaten several bushels of it without realizing the etymology of my food.  It literally means barbecued on a fork, or for short, barbecued fork. 
Last week I went around looking for a place to rent.  I came across glass rooms on the ground level with lots of pictures of rooms and numbers on them and lots of Chinese characters.  I didn’t understand what everything meant – some numbers were square feet measurements, others rental prices, others sale prices, others I still don’t know – but I knew that I could go inside and talk to people who’d get me closer to my goal of residency.  Once I stopped to actually look at the signs.  I saw this word: . Then a strange process went through my head.  I figured it was pronounced “zho” (rhyming with foe). Why did I figure that? I had seen the word before and knew it was pronounced zu in Mandarin. I’m familiar enough with the sound changes between Mandarin and Cantonese to know that there’s a good chance that word would be pronounced “zho” in Cantonese, which is incidentally the same pronunciation for the word for rent.  It would make sense that this word meant “rent.” But why did I recognize that character? I suddenly realized I had seen it on taxi stands in Beijing, where taxis are called 出租车 chuzu che. I had first learned the pronunciation of that word out of necessity, and already recognizing chu (go out) and che (car) I figured out what that sign meant when I saw it. So I had also said taxi countless times without realizing what it meant.  Then I thought about it and realized that in mainland China, taxi literally means “for-rent car.” Ahhhhhhhhhh. I felt like I had been given different pieces in two languages and just connected them to solve the bilingual puzzle.  Incidentally, taxi’s are called 的司 dik si in Hong Kong, a transliteration of the English taxi.

Also while renting, I was exposed to formal numbers. Numbers are among the simplest characters to write. Here’s 1, 2, 3: 一二三. However, since they are so simple, in formal contexts, generally monetary ones, separate characters are used. This way a check amount cannot be easily modified. These formal numeral characters are pretty obscure and my relatives that lived here didn’t even know how to write them. When I signed my lease, the amount of my monthly rent was formally written – thus I nervously signed off on a figure that I couldn’t read.  Luckily I could still tell the number of digits in the amount, and since the first two digits were different, I knew that the maximum amount the number could be was 9,800, which was precisely my rental amount.  So I knew I couldn’t be cheated.

Tsim Sa Tsui is a pretty happening place at the southern tip of Kowloon. I know where it is, some of what’s there, how to pronounce it in Cantonese and English but I never thought about what it meant.  Then I was reading its name on the subway and realized that Sa means sand, and Tsui means mouth. I didn’t recognize the character for Tsim but I surmised that it meant sharp because I knew that word had the same sound. So Tsim Sa Tsui literally meant sharp sandy mouth, which made sense because it was a point at the south of the land that jutted into the harbor.  Then I looked at the character for Tsim. (jian in Mandarin).  It is 尖,which I realized was the character for small on top of the character for big.  So the character depicted something that was small on top and bigger on the bottom, or essentially anything sharp.  And that reasoning is pretty sharp.

Also here’s my tips for reading characters without memorizing 10,000 of them: Learn the basic ones, then when you recognize the character as part of a larger character (on the right side), then pronounce it the same as that word but in a different tone.  Or maybe change the initial consonant sound. I’ve been using this for a few years now and I can fake my literacy level pretty well.
I always mix up Australia and Europe in Chinese.  In Cantonese, Australia is ngou zhouw, Europe is ao zhouw.  In Mandarin, Australia is ao zhou, Europe is ou zhou.  Basically they are the opposite of each other, and I never remember which is which. The way I eventually figure it out is by remembering that the first part of Australia is the same as the first part of Macau, which in Mandarin is aomen.

This is the first time outside of the classroom that I have been called by my Chinese name, 李启明. When addressing me in Chinese, my family calls me 明明 Ming Ming, and just about everyone I knew on a first name basis in China called me Cal or Chris.  Here in transactions, people ask not what your name is by how they should address you.  To this I say my last name is Lee and they call me 李先生, or Mr. Lee. In Beijing, I was interested in seeing what my landlord the second time around would call me, as he didn’t speak any English and invited me over for dinner.  To my surprise he never asked for my name and instead called me 小李, or Little Lee.  Here people have addressed me by my full name as well as 李先生, and I’ve seen Lee Christopher Alan on official documents (because the surname comes first in Chinese). Hearing this name being used seems a little surreal, as if by answering to it I’m adopting another identity.  Also surreal is hearing 李先生 in Cantonese because that was previously an address that I had only ever heard used to refer to my father.

A very good indicator variable for whether I know a country's name in Chinese is whether it was in the 2010 World Cup...

Today it really clicked on me that the word for thank you, ng goi, is also used to say "excuse me" when you want someone to get out of the way or get their attention.  Shocking that I never really understood that, and I still don't fully understand it.  Anyways I'm definitely learning every day and at a really good point in my language process, where I'm improving and it's not frustrating.  I've come to really like learning languages and getting a thrill when understanding a word for the first time, and I think I may scratch an itch for another language in the future.

Monday, October 17, 2011

A Whole New World / Hong Kong 101

Hey it's my first post in Hong Kong, a full week into my time here.  It's been a whirlwind month, one that's taken me from the comforts of Washington DC all the way to Hong Kong via Boston and San Francisco, but this past week has been a hurricane at the end of the whirlwind.  I find it odd that when one first arrives in a new city, one has the most tasks to do but is least prepared to do them. So after an initial trip to Disneyland, I've spent this week running around the city looking for housing, filling out work forms, setting up bank accounts, cell phone plans, seeing relatives and getting lost. I needed a local bank account to go to work, needed an address to get a bank account, and thought I could use a loophole to get a cell phone plan without an address and set up my bank account with it.  Turns out I wasn't able to do that but I was able to set up a bank account with proof my US address and my uncle's local address.  I eventually found housing by walking around areas I was interested in and finding real estate agencies on the street, walking in and telling them my price range and needs.  Here was perhaps my biggest culture shock.



The real estate market in Hong Kong is perhaps like no other, and certainly my experience craiglisting apartments in DC did not prepare me for this.  Space is a premium in Hong Kong (more on this later), the 4th most densely populated sovereign territory in the world, and so apartment prices approach and often exceed Manhattan's prices.  A key difference however lies in the more affordable markets.  In the United States, real estate operates by location location location.  A cheap place usually means a small place in a bad neighborhood.  The quality of the place is generally pretty standard.  In Hong Kong it's all about quality - the neighborhoods all tend to be pretty safe, especially by my standards.  Most of the places I saw were in the range of 250-450 square feet and in older buildings.  Older buildings is an important characteristic - structures that are 25-40 years old were built in a different era of Hong Kong, back when it was very much a developing country but already dealing with overcrowding.  The people then were used to a cramped way of life.  It's difficult for me to describe quality here, but you can see it in the material.  Even when the tiles and tables are clean, they look dirty. Many kitchens did not have built in stoves but portable gas or electric ones. One of the bathrooms I went into had a toilet, a hose and a sink - no shower curtains - in a space that wouldn't fit Governor Christie.

I was initially surprised and dismayed by what I found. My apartments in Beijing, despite being in a developing country, were more sizable and of better quality than everything I was seeing.  In addition, my experience in Hong Kong was that it was a first world city, filled with flashy skyscrapers.  Real estate prices in Beijing, though still stingy, are less exorbitant than Hong Kong, and recent growth has led to an influx of new buildings.  Those two factors and a friendly exchange rate all contributed to my comfortable living there.  Eventually I lucked into a one bedroom apartment in a new building on the 27th floor right by the subway in Kowloon, and after talking the price down by nearly $2,000 HKD a month, the place became affordable.  I'm still kinda amazed that I found and rented this place, which is not pictured above.

Anyways in just a week I've realized that my previous impression of Hong Kong had only scratched the elite surface of this city.  Though it had served as a respite from mainland China for me in previous summers, it is much closer to mainland China than I had realized.  English is considerably less widespread than I thought, inequality more so, and the food actually makes me sick.  Anyways I think this is a good time to go into what is Hong Kong for my American friends.


HONG KONG 101 - as requested by Kerry Burke

Hong Kong refers to both an island and a Special Administrated Region of the People's Republic of China.  Located off the southern coast of China, Hong Kong is just south of the Tropic of Cancer and just incredibly humid. Today, October 17th, had a high of 83 and a humidity of around 60%.  It's modern history starts in 1842 when the island of Hong Kong given to the United Kingdom in perpetuity as a result of the First Opium War, which when seen as a war against drugs won by the drug dealers, seems pretty bizarre now.  1898 saw Britain obtain a 99 year lease on a larger swath of territory adjoining Hong Kong on the Chinese mainland.  The ensuing 99 years saw an immense deal of change to the region including the overthrowing of the Qing Dynasty, the end of thousands of years of Chinese dynastic rule, the Republic of China, World War II, the Chinese Civil War, the Great Leap Forward, the rise of the Four Asian Tigers, and the life of Bruce Lee.  As a result when it was all said and done, there was a giant gulf between the People's Republic of China and Hong Kong.  The 1997 Handover technically only required the UK to hand over the New Territories that it had obtained in 1898 and not the island of Hong Kong. However authorities figured the island couldn't stand on its own and agreed to return all the territory.  For decades the way this handover would go down was very uncertain, and many people immigrated from Hong Kong for fear of upcoming Communist rule.  Negotiations though resulted in a relatively stable transition that has preserved much of the way of life in Hong Kong.People in Hong Kong have a different system of government, speak a different language, use a different currency, different dialing code, drive on the other side of the road, and have considerably more political freedoms than their mainland counterparts.

About the languages, Hong Kong is primarily a Cantonese speaking area.  In older times, all regions of Chinese had their own dialects, most of them unintelligible with each other. When traveling, people could communicate through a standardized written language and even sign language for numbers. After 1949 when the PRC came into power, they instituted a policy of Mandarin, the dialect of Beijing, as the national language.  Though Chairman Mao himself did not speak Mandarin, it did come to dominate the country.  While they do exist, especially with non-Han minorities, I have yet to meet a PRC citizen who could not communicate in Mandarin.  Taiwan, also known as the Republic of China, was also dominated by a minority of mainlanders retreating from the Civil War, who also mandated Mandarin as a national language.  Though I've heard of elder people who only knew Taiwanese and Japanese, the language of the colonial power at the time, I have also not met a citizen of Taiwan who does not speak Mandarin. However I've met many a Hong Konger who could not speak Mandarin, and even more who spoke it extremely poorly.  It seems that the massive spread of Mandarin pretty much past Hong Kong right by. Cantonese is still widely spoken in the neighboring Guangdong region, as well as by Chinese expat communities in Vietnam, Malaysia, Thailand, Australia, Canada, the United States and the UK etc.  The written language, as mentioned above, is the same for all Chinese dialects. However standard Chinese writing now closely approximates spoken Mandarin and drifts significantly from spoken Cantonese. Also, the PRC adopted a whole new set of characters which they call simplified characters as opposed to traditional characters.  Maybe half of the characters were changed, and this was the writing which I learned in college. Taiwan and Hong Kong have not adopted simplified characters, and most overseas communities still use traditional.

English is also spoken in Hong Kong, similar to other former British colonies.  While China was closed off from the world between the 50's and 80's, Westerners were much more common in Hong Kong. Just about all signs are bilingual in Chinese and English.  English is taught in all schools though not always well. Most ex-pats don't learn any Chinese, and many that do only learn Mandarin.  About 40% of Hong Kong can speak it proficiently which is often directly tied to class. It is rarely used as a lingua franca between Chinese, making its use very different from that of India.  British English is traditionally in force, with words like lift, car park, colour, and rubbish in vogue. However nowadays America has a stronger influence and American accents probably more common.  Hong Kong strives to become a "Biliterate, Trilingual society" and a fair amount of the population has gotten close.  Most higher paying jobs, including workers at Disneyland, are expected to be trilingual to some extent.

With the help of British investment, the infrastructure of Hong Kong has really been built up.  The most striking features, and my favorite, of Hong Kong are its skyline and transportation.  Hong Kong has the most skyscrapers of any city in the world, and the IFC, Bank of China and Hong Kong Shanghai Bank Building are world famous icons.  The skyline is pretty dazzling, culminating in a ridiculous synchronized coordinated light show.  The subway system, called the MTR, is based off of the London Underground.  However constructed about 100 years later, they learned from previous mistakes and created the incredible system we have today.  A glass plate separates trains from the platforms, preventing people from falling onto the tracks. Trains come super often, 2 minutes apart even during non-peak hours. Octopus cards have served as touch scan, distance calculating check cards since 1997, and also work in buses, taxis, 7-elevens and many other shops.  I know the DC transportation system extremely well and while it's quite good, it just doesn't compare to Hong Kong.  I made a trip on Saturday which could be the equivalent of going from Arlington to Silver Spring.  On the weekends in DC, you have to budget at least 75 minutes for that. Here I made it in 40.  The buses here don't have schedules - instead they just come, faster than 1 in every 10 minutes, which is a huge change from waiting 30+ minutes on sidewalks in Georgetown.  An online poll didn't have Hong Kong in the top 9 metros in the world (1. Copenhagen 2. London) which in my mind is a complete travesty.  Helped by the small land mass, it's by far the best metro I've ever been on, which includes most of that list.  Also, cell phones work perfectly on the subway, which is both weird and awesome.

Hong Kong is also a 3 dimensional city full of underground passages and skywalks and probably a consequence of its brutal summers.  With all the walkways you can walk all over downtown Hong Kong around Central, through skywalks and malls, without every stepping away from air-conditioning.    This actually involves a difficult adjustment for me because to get around, you need to know not just the streets but also the insides of buildings.  In a city like this, GPS maps are of limited use. It's a complete opposite from the vertically challenged DC.

When you're walking around Central and its overly airconditioned structures, you might think you're in a futuristic city. Not even New York is this modern, this clean.  When you go into a country club you might think you're in England.  When you go deep into Kowloon or out into the New Territories and settle into a Dai Pai Dong, you might think you're in mainland China. It's the same type of restaurants, the same type of trash cans, the same crooked teeth, the same feel that I've yet to learn how to put into words. It's that kind of city, with the highest buildings and the highest Gini coefficient in East Asia. And because of Hong Kong's unique political situation, the poor people of Hong Kong are even less likely to have ever left their hometown than the poor people of China and the US.

After the handover, a relaxed policy of granting rights to its diaspora community resulted in my obtaining a Hong Kong ID card with a full 3 stars.  Though I've never lived here, I have more rights than British expats who have been here for over a decade.  I don't even need to show my passport at the airport, compared to China where I need to obtain a visa beforehand. My experiences in China had always been very different from my time in Hong Kong.  China was legitimately a foreign country, with a language and customs that I only had a rudimentary grasp of.  Hong Kong had been a city I flew into to get taken out to dinner by my relatives. Only now that I'm preparing to live here for the indefinite future do I realize how much I have to learn.  I do speak the language, which is both extremely useful and rapidly improving.  However, again I am not outwardly perceived as a Cantonese speaker, which I find both humorous and bothersome.  My American manners and mixed looks shout out foreigner.  A couple times, even when I'm speaking to people in Cantonese, but with their preset perceptions, they still don't realize I'm speaking Cantonese and respond to me in English.  Due to the statuses of English and Mandarin, Cantonese is very rarely learned as a second language, though more so than I had previously thought.  Furthermore, I find myself walking around the streets of Kowloon understanding stray talk unbeknownst to their speakers and find myself in a surreal world.  I don't really understand the way of life of the people I'm listening to, yet somehow I understand them.  Somehow, the language I learned in my kitchen in Newton, and practiced in the restaurants and shops of Chinatown in DC and heard on my iPod from Australian radio podcasts allows me to communicate with these people on the streets of Hong Kong.  It feels almost like a loophole in the system, as if I found a clever way around the general rules of being a foreigner.  In addition, I also speak Mandarin in a very different manner than the locals here.  Most locals can understand Mandarin a lot better than I can, but butcher their pronunciation and don't know general slang.  My unusual and imperfect command of Beijing Mandarin confuses people even more.

In short, it's been a jam-packed and unusual week.  There is quite a lot I didn't see coming, and I haven't even started work or frisbee yet.  I haven't gone out yet as I don't have any friends here.  I've barely even had time for any touristy stuff, and thus have no interesting pictures besides the insides of apartments I saw.  But life is an adventure, and this may be unlike any other adventure I've been on.

Friday, October 7, 2011

Multiculturalism in the world


Multiculturalism is often viewed as a jumble of customs and thoughts, sometimes contrasting, confusing or conflicting.  It's manifestation in various countries can be modeled as a melting pot, or as a salad bowl.  So too were my thoughts on multiculturalism a jumbled mess.  Openly obsessed with diversity, I have seen and lived the multicultural experience several times and have come out with a boatload of strong opinions and stories. Surprisingly, it was a summer spent working at the United States Bureau of the Census, exploring mathematical models, that helped to organize my thoughts into a comprehensive theory.  I wasn't expecting to encounter very much outside of math while working in the Center for Statistical Research and Methodology.  However, I hadn't counted on the Census Bureau being a leading place for social and racial discussion.  As I wind up my internship, I actually find myself coming out having unified advanced statistical theory with my approach to conceptualizing American and global society.  All in all, I really can't imagine getting more out of an internship.

Too much confusion - bring back Confucian!
First off, I want to establish why we should care about multiculturalism.  I've come to believe that culture is the most important defining aspect of who we are.  Even if you'd rather define yourself by what you like or what you do, say as an outdoors enthusiast, or a painter, or a vegetarian, all that is inexorably tied to where you come from and how you grew up. This isn't fatalistic as there's obviously room for individuality, but the culture that surrounds us do more to shape our actions, thoughts, perspectives and even appearances, than we realize. Our culture is crucial to our self-identity; thus people who grow up without one easily identifiable culture (i.e. they moved around a lot) often struggle with figuring out who they are.  Don't underestimate the significance, or flexibility, of self-identity.  So when culture is so vital to who you are, it's important to understand its effects when interacting with someone from a different culture.

Multiculturalism of some form has been well-woven into the fabric of the USA - it's permanent presence here is acknowledged.  Even if it's questioned, dissected or hotly debated, I don't know of anybody campaigning to expunge America of its many cultures. But in Europe, this debate is at the forefront.  An article by Kenan Malik this summer sharply critiques Europe's approach to multiculturalism.  This year British PM David Cameron announced his belief that state multiculturalism has failed in the UK.  And this was all BEFORE the terrorist attack in Norway by Anders Breivik, motivated by anti-multicultural sentiments, particularly against the perceived Islamization of Europe.  While everyone rightfully denounced Breivik and didn't take his manifestos seriously, I thought that this should have been an opportunity for us to reflect on how to combat xenophobic sentiment in Europe. After all, if we have defense analysts all over the world studying Islam and the Jihadist movements it has spawned, shouldn't we have people studying European anti-multiculturalism and the terrorism that it is starting to spawn?  Maybe Breivik is a unique case, a hateful anomaly, but I think there is certainly an underlying concern that influenced him, and it needs to be addressed. The politics of Dutch party leader Geert Wilders, largely founded on anti-Islamism, is further concern.

It seems easy to dismiss these people as intolerant and racist, especially coming from America.  We're citizens of a country founded and continually refueled by immigrants, boasting a list of notable immigrants which includes Alexander Hamilton and Albert Einstein and immigrant children Colin Powell and Barack Obama.  We almost want to cry out to the rest of the world, "It's not so bad!"  But one needs to peer through the single-colored lens of other countries and understand where they're coming from.  The very fundamental existence of most European nations arose from the concept of a nation-state as the political self-determination of people with shared ethnic identity.  The concept of a German or an Italian people has not always existed - it took the establishment of a common identity to unite a group of people, distinguish themselves from others, and eventually lead to the boundaries that we know today.  Portugal, Spain, France, Italy, Germany, Poland, Slovenia, Slovakia etc are just some examples of European nations who are fundamentally linked to the traditional nation state concept.  The necessary byproduct of a common identity is a sense of who you are not, the establishment of an other.  This process is not as natural as it might appear.  Today we have Spanish-speakers in Spain, French speakers in France and Polish speakers in Poland. However, we could easily have Leonese speakers in Leon, Occitan speakers in Occitania, and Silesian speakers in Silesia. Point is, the establishment of a nation state is generally a result of political forces, and ex post facto creates a national identity at the expense of regional ones.

Anyways let's look at a small village. Imagine everyone and their ancestors have lived in that village for as long as anyone can remember, and a villager will not only know every other villager, but who their parents were/are.  The village shares an identity, which might not be of consequence when you're focusing on local gossip and news, but when compared against even the next town over, suddenly arises.  A whole village sharing this much in common tends to be more trusting.  The residents are likely very friendly, very sharing, don't lock doors, and rely on the communal accountability to take care of deviants.  The inhabitants will likely all share pride over their village, their customs and their specialties that distinguish them from other villages.

And it's true, when you bring in outsiders, you disrupt this communal utopia.  When people don't know what their neighbors believe in, when new arrivals don't understand or respect the history of their new homes, when people sharing the same space don't get along and don't realize why they can't get along.... well then you see some of the problems we've seen in these last few centuries.  Then you get these villagers who see their town overrun with Chinese restaurants and Turkish gyro stands and sigh, "can't we go back to the old days?"

I think the answer is no.  We can't go back and we shouldn't.  We're more prepared now as a society than ever for multiculturalism but we still have a long way to go.

The thing I've learned this summer is that there is still so much we don't know about race and culture in our world.  I can look up Census data and tell you that 18.5% of blacks never graduated high school, compared to the national average of 14.7% and have a mean household income of $33,632 compared to the nationwide $50,221.  There is a lot of data that I can pull up to show that blacks in America are poorer, less educated, more likely to be incarcerated, more likely to be murdered.  Yet still in 2011, I can't tell you why this is. We can't pinpoint what percentage of black impoverishment is due to racism (institutional or blatant), historical oppression stemming from slavery, African American culture, recent immigration or the-almost-tabooed genetics. We really can't. We don't understand race and society nearly as well as we think we do.

We don't even understand race as much as we think we do.  How many "African-Americans" are descended from American slaves?  How many of them are descended from Caribbean slaves? How many of them have more white ancestors but still identify as black? How many of them have more black ancestors but identify as white? How many of them are descended from African immigrants who have no slavery in their family history? How many look black but identify as Hispanic? How many are have immigrated from Europe, the Middle East or elsewhere and identify with those regions?  How many people identify with multiple of these designations?  Does it even make sense to group all these people together?

Race is already extremely complex and it's only going to become more so.  No longer can we impute someone's language, culture and nationality from their race, or vice versa.  The examples I listed in the previous paragraph are not theoretical cases, they are real growing demographics. In a generation or two, you may see significant amounts of African immigrants coming from China.  Already we're seeing lots of Asians coming from Latin America who may identify as Asian, Hispanic or neither.

So the great theoretical light bulb that clicked on for me in the Center for Statistical Research and Methodology was that it's not about the data.  Statisticians who focus too much on the data, full of imperfections and uncertainty, tend to find imaginary correlations and develop models that overfit the data.  The best approach is to develop a fundamentally sound model which can recreate data similar to the data that we observe.  I think the way we understand race in our multicultural society needs to be the same way.  When culture is so important to identity and race fundamentally separate from culture, an approach identifying people by their race is so immensely flawed.  An approach that uses race as a contextualized component of our local culture goes much farther in explaining the way our country has evolved and where it is headed.

I think that accepting multiculturalism may be impossible to teach.  We all learn in schools not to be prejudiced, not to avoid stereotypes, not to use certain words etc. before we know what any of that means. This early accepting education has failed created a country without racism.  No, we need to experience multiculturalism in order to embrace it.  We need to see a world where our political leaders come from all sorts of backgrounds and so much more.  In this country we need to see more Blacks and Hispanics in higher education and operating fancy restaurants, more Asians in the media and in professional sports, more whites in the service industries.  We need to see black people speaking Japanese, Hispanics speaking Swahili, white people eating with chopsticks, Arabs with long beards praying in front of a cross, a Chinese guy with a British accent hosting a water skiing show.  We need to see all permutations of human origin and behavior so that we can see that all of that is possible.  And that is where Europe is currently lagging.  They haven't had the chance to see people of different genetic material become versed in their national cultures for multiple generations.  Until they do, they will not realize how flawed the small-village model they have operating under has become.

Lastly, I think we can accomplish all of this without all out assimilation.  I think culture is just like language, you can be fluent or conversant in multiple cultures.  While many people have argued that immigrants and immigrant children will always have conflicting loyalties and identities, I steadfastly disagree based on my personal experience.  I am 100% American.  I was born and raised in the Boston area and went to college in the nation's capital.  There is nothing significant about the American culture that I have seen around me that I don't get.  Maybe when I was a little kid I'd ask my parents why the other white kids did this or that, but by now I get it.  I love my Boston sports, I identified fully with my place among the DC yuppies and I will take off my hat and sing along to the Star-Spangled banner.  In addition, I get a fair amount of Chinese culture and it has added enormously to my life.  I will fly to Hong Kong in a few days and have a large meal with family members around a lazy Susan, where the youngest will incessantly check the teacups of everyone else and refill their cups, we'll start and end the meal with soup, and I will be in sync every step of the way.  In DC, I hang about Chinatown and learn to buy giant boxes of delicious rice noodles for $4, find haircuts for $8 and learn that there are many Chinese descendants in Vietnam and Malaysia and that they speak Cantonese.  Knowing all this just added an extra dimension to my life, it didn't take away from the American dimension already present.  I'm so grateful and lucky to have this multicultural lifestyle.  I just hope that with global political forces understanding, more and more people will also embrace their multicultural lives. 

Saturday, August 13, 2011

Top Ten Coffee Shops in DC

I love making lists, and I spent much of this year heavily caffeinated in Washington DC coffee shops, so this post was a long time coming. Now I never intended to do a comprehensive survey of DC coffee shops and so there are plenty of great spots that I never visited. While I've been to enough awesome coffeeshops to be able to make a list of the top 10, keep in mind that this selection is rather arbitrary (though the top 5 are hard to beat). Also I'm rating them based on the quality of the coffee/drinks (good food is a bonus), the price of the coffee/drinks, the decor, the quality and availability of space (and plugs), hours, the convenience to public transportation from places I would be and how nice the people treated me. If those criteria seem off and self-centered, it's cause they are, and if that bothers you, get your own blog (or spend an hour on Yelp).

HONORABLE MENTIONS:
Quartermaine Coffee
This coffeeshop on a main drag in Bethesda, MD is fantastic. The interior was sleek and well-designed and the coffee was legit, with a bunch of Ethiopian and Kenyan beans if I recall correctly. However this place is too far out of my general scope to really be considered.
First Cup Cafe
Across the street from my summer living and on the way to the metro, First Cup Cafe lived up to its name many mornings on my way to the Census Bureau.  The Smoked Salmon & Cream Cheese bagel was $4.00 at the beginning of the summer and $4.50 at the end of it.
Saxby's Georgetown
I have almost certainly bought more drinks (and occasional yogurt) at this coffeeshop than any other in the world. With a Saxby's Card, every 10 drinks brings me a free frolatte, and I've gotten 3 of those, which are awesome. But my prevalence at Saxby's was one of convenience more than anything else, and there is almost never a free seat.
Midnight Mug
The oasis of Lauinger provided me refuge and fuel during many long nights. The ever-changing decor of student photos and campus advertising really set an ideal college atmosphere. Definitely my favorite of the Corp locations, you can't really compare Midnight Mug with any of these other coffeeshops.
Tryst
I haven't spent very much time in this Adams Morgan locale, that flows from coffeeshop to bar better than any other place I know. It's a great place to chat and meetup, but the location was never convenient for me.

Also, no chain stores are mentioned here. I've spent a lot of time at a lot of Starbucks and Caribous (and Saxby's is also a chain) and I know which locations are better, but it's not worth mentioning.

10. Bean Good: The Coffee Pub
Formerly Greenberry's, this little outlet next to Ray's Hell Burger and Pho 75 (one of my favorite stretches in the DC metro area) is perhaps the least known place on this list. The only Virginia joint here, I discovered it by accident while lunching at its aforementioned neighbors. I soon made weekly trips to this stretch, and enjoyed the independent, sustainable environment and ample space. The coffee is so-so and the location is a fair walk from Rosslyn and Courthouse. But they also serve gelato, nice dessert pastries, and are a good wealth of information about local events.

9. Java House
This was a pretty random find on the East side of Dupont Circle. The coffee is good and cheap, with a focus on beans. Their mocha is good and $3.85, which looks like a misprint in Dupont. The place is pretty small but still features a gigantic antique brewing machine. Granted I visited it in the early afternoon, that awkward time when clients are either unemployed, telecommuters or math graduate students, but Java House was awkwardly devoid of any atmosphere.

8. Peregrine Espresso

Peregrine in Eastern Market came with a bit of hype, but I just found it ok. It's clear they take their coffee seriously, and they put the whole flower design on their special drinks, but the mocha I had was nothing special. Everything was pricey though and I didn't find anything notable about the decor, drink variety or setting. The service is great though, the neighborhood is awesome, and apparently they even have a unique bicycle delivery service.

7. Ebenezer's
My neighborhood coffeeshop in Capitol Hill was a good one. The coffeehouse is run by the National Community Church and they serve their fair-trade coffee with subtle religious undertones (I think it's in the Christian rock music). It's cute how they print wireless passwords on the receipts, and they make killer iced mint mochas. The building is definitely the oldest building on this list, dating to 1908 when it served hungry passerbys coming to and fro nearby Union Station. They also have a TV constantly showing sports, and open mic events. Not always great for seating, but conversely, not a bad place to pick up dates.

6. Big Bear Cafe
Disclaimer: I'm currently writing this blog post at Big Bear. After strong reviews from Kerry Burke, I decided to visit. A strong neighborhood presence in Bloomingdale, perhaps on its way to becoming the Williamsburg of DC, struck me as BBC's defining characteristic. Not particularly metro-accessible, it's location had never proved useful to me. However it's relative isolation allows it to really serve a community, where it combines the roles of coffeehouse, cafe and bar better than any other establishment on this list. Having only had a couple bites of Kerry's "porta nozzle pesto" sandwich and soup, I'm nonetheless also ready to declare BBC's food supreme in this list. It's decoration was also intriguing, somehow giving off both Parisian and utilitarian vibes. However for my purposes, Big Bear Cafe is just #6 as a coffeeshop.

5. Soho Coffee & Tea
This Dupont Circle establishment, located on the road to Georgetown, saw a lot of me this past semester. It's address could not have been more convenient, and there was always seating. Combine this with Soho's hours (til midnight on weekdays!) and when I really needed to do work, there was absolutely nowhere more reliable than Soho. The coffee was fine, served in jars if you're staying inside, and the menu includes Stella on tap and breakfast all night long. The service is super friendly to the extent that my lost notebook and iPhone spent some time with the staff before safely returning to me, and that at least two gay servers made exploratory moves on me. Yes Soho is a unique place, not the least because simulated horse races are constantly running on TV screens, where you can apparently actually place legal wagers on these CGI horses. A couple times I was also present when at around 8pm, a large group of people convened and started playing some large board game. Perhaps Soho ranks #1 on this list for people-watching or chance of an unexpected adventure. Unfortunately it ranks dead last in prices, where it gives the full Dupont treatment. If $2.90 for a small coffee and $7 for a tuna melt drive you crazy, then Soho isn't for you. But if you're looking for a place to play Risk or can't wait for the Kentucky Derby to come back, then check out Soho Coffee & Tea.

4. Baked and Wired
Baked and Wired is now best known as "the real best place to get cupcakes in Georgetown" which I think actually draws away from its real appeal. Yes their solid mounds of cupcake will apparate you to sugar nirvana, but if you venture past the frosting, Baked and Wired's backroom represents what coffeeshops are about. The sticky notes on the wall, the travel pictures, the public library and the chalkboard with friendly customer messages in a half dozen languages - this is the original point of bringing people together under one roof over a cup of coffee. Plus they recently added Vietnamese Coffee to their menu (!!!!), although it wasn't quite legit. Lastly, Baked & Wired has the best name here and play it up, printing out lots of paraphernalia encouraging you to "Get Baked." While I don't condone the drug use they imply, and perhaps paraphernalia was a poor word choice, I definitely condone puns and Baked & Wired. Really the only reason this is #4 on my list is because it's a bit too hectic, and it's location, at an awkward no-man's land on the fringes of Georgetown's M Street, only allowed me a few visits over the year.

3. Chinatown Coffee

It's name implies that it might have something to do with Chinatown, but anything Chinese about Chinatown ends about a block before Chinatown Coffee. So don't be surprised to walk in here and wonder if you somehow stumbled into Harvard Square or San Francisco. I don't know what it is but you can tell this place just breathes liberal ideas. Chinatown Coffee isn't particularly fancy, but it somehow provides reasonable and eclectic offerings including French press coffee, hand drip coffee, absinthe, and cupcakes (cause why not?). The place is narrow, giving off the flair of an art gallery, but is deceptively spacious. I'm having trouble explaining why I like this place so much, maybe absinthe is enough right there, but I do. It's awesome.

2. Sidamo

All the coffeeshops here are unique, but Sidamo is completely unlike every other place on this list. It completely fails on some of my criteria: the place is tiny and seats are harder to come by than original Ke$ha songs. Though it was just 5 blocks from my Capitol Hill residence, it's not easy to get to - it seems half of DC don't even know the H Street corridor exists. I'd call this place a whole in the wall, but a giant teapot actually sticks out into the street from the wall. But once you taste the coffee, ANY of the coffee, you'll realize what a wonder this innocuous little place has been hiding. Sidamo is the name of a province in Ethiopia which is incidentally where coffee comes from. One sip and you'll realize that Ethiopians are centuries ahead of the Western world in their knowledge of coffee. All their drinks are good, from the simple coffee (bunch of varieties) to the mocha to the chai leben - the only disappointments are the coffee-less fruit smoothies. Sidamo also has a weekly Ethiopian coffee ceremony on Sundays, pictured here, which involved deep brewing and strong aromas generously offered to all patrons. Sidamo doesn't offer fast service or even good hours, but they offer the best coffee in town and that's plenty right there.

1. Pound the Hill
Eastern Market is the type of neighborhood that will go out of its way to support a coffeeshop, so it's no surprise that the best coffeeshop in DC is located there. Pound the Hill finds itself at #1 here because it is the closest thing I have found to the coffeeshop I hope to someday found. My first impression was a great one, being blasted with real brick walls and Nutella Latte highlighted on the menu. The drinks are all terrific, including the shakes, and frequently feature global specialities, such as Mexican Horchata. The food menu is also similarly well traveled, including portobello goat cheese sandwiches, curry chicken and quesadillas. The staff had already adopted iPads to handle transactions (you sign for your credit card right on the touchpad) and were super awesome. The seating varies from these little solo tables in the main room to more comfortable lounging in a book room to outdoor seating. The place may lack a sense of togetherness, as there is no real "common room" space, but I knew I had found a winner when I arrived during final exams. No tables were free, but someone reading a book looked up and realized my plight, and politely offered to move from his table to a chair. It's as great an atmosphere as you can create, which is really the hardest part about running a coffeeshop. Plus, they have Nutella! Pound the Hill is the best of a great bunch of coffeeshops around our nation's little capital.

Monday, July 11, 2011

Harry Potter and the Wizarding Generation

It began at different times for all of us. It all ends 12:01am, July 15th, 2011.

Now it really ended sometime after July 21st, 2007, but none of us wanted it to end. So we procrastinated until this Friday, after which there will be nothing new left for us to marvel.

If you don't know what I'm talking about, you neither read this post title, nor are you a part of it. For me and other like-minded individuals around my age, I believe we are defined not by Gmail, Facebook or iPhones, not by texting or auto-tune, not by Youtube or Barack Obama. We are first and foremost the Harry Potter generation.

Now we all like to think we found him first, and that when we read the books we delve into a fictional world with our friends Harry, Ron and Hermione. We know their intricacies and personality quirks, and we'd prefer to curl up in bed and think about them then think about our real friends, who have also spent time in their room reading copies of the same pages. It's odd that an experience so personal can be simultaneously so collective and communal. Such a phenomenon is truly unprecedented. P.S. I'm well aware that I'm on the more fanatical side of this generation - though I have stopped short of carving a lightning scar into my forehead, I have tried to live my life like I was auditioning for Gryffindor.

So yeah, I grew up with Harry. Like I've said, I wasn't the only one, but I was put squarely in the middle of his incredible fictional/real life trajectory. Harry Potter and the Philosopher's Stone came out June 29, 1997 but kids weren't lining up blocks outside the bookstore on June 28. Most of us heard about this boy wizard a few years later. I was in 5th grade (late '98) when another student told me about it and I picked up a hardcover from my elementary school's yard sale (true story). At the beginning of the book, I was 10, Harry was 11 and neither of us had ever heard of the Philosopher's Stone. (By the end of the book, I still hadn't, because the American version was idiotically renamed the Sorcerer's Stone) That first book was legitimately a children's book, meant perfectly for someone of my reading level at the time. I was hooked sometime after Harry received his owl, and immediately wanted the sequel after I finished. At the time, Chamber of Secrets was not out in the US yet, but I somehow managed to find Amazon.co.uk in the pre-Google days, and ordered the book. It said that it would ship within 2 days, and I figured the flight from England was only 6 hours, so I'd have it in 2 days and 6 hours or so. I was so disappointed when it took a week to arrive.

Looking back, because those books were so easy to read, they didn't attract the elder generation. I made my whole family read them, and although my brother and mom got into them, my dad thought it was just amusing. For me, I had never seen anything like it. I'd read plenty of fantasy before then, as well as captivating mystery books and other children's classics. But JK Rowling created a subtle magic world. An underground magical community hidden from everyday life in the UK was at once more relatable and more exciting than an imaginary realm like Middle Earth. As absurd as it may sound, we put ourselves in Harry's shoes more than we ever put ourselves in Matilda's, and hoped that this world was real and that we might get our own owl soon enough.

Then Prisoner of Azkaban came out and everything changed. We were perhaps too young to be cynics, and thus the revelation of Sirius Black's true character caught us totally unaware. The new imaginative magic continued (Marauder's Map, time turners, Animagus) but the story definitely took a dark turn. The books were getting longer and scarier, and while this one ended in a relatively happy ending, Rowling was warning us. When the Goblet of Fire came out, we would have to take the plunge with Harry into the unknown (and adolescence). Rowling broke us in gently, by introducing death into the series to a relatively minor, but lovable, character. By this time, everyone we knew had at least tried to read the books, and the overwhelming majority of us loved them. The US and UK publishers had gotten together and were releasing the books at the same time. But we were all forced to wait a few years in between books, with Order of Phoenix coming out 3 years after Goblet of Fire.

Now as a generation, we were used to disappoints. From the Star Wars series reboot, to the Y2K bug to Michael Jordan's comeback with the Wizards, we'd seen our share of overhyping. But the Harry Potter books never disappointed. Sure they weren't perfect (more on that later), but every other summer, though we might spend uncomfortably long waiting at the bookstore, we would never regret it upon finishing. The series kept us guessing and turning the pages. Rowling knew how to play her cards, always revealing progressively cooler and cooler stuff the more into the series we read.

Finally the day before my 19th birthday (while Harry was 17-18), Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows came out. I don't recall being more excited for anything ever, and I honestly may never be. Though I had reread the 6th book dozens of times (I wasn't the coolest college freshman) combing for clues into how Harry was going to find the horcruxes, Rowling again led us on an unpredictable roller coaster. Though I considered the ending a little anticlimactic, it was essentially ending an 8 year saga encompassing most of my life, and I don't know how it could have met expectations short of actually casting a spell. I read the book straight through from midnight to 7:30 in the morning. When I got to the part where Harry saw Snape's memories, I cried while reading for the first time in my life. When I finished the whole series, I probably could have cried again but I was too exhausted. I slept that morning, and for the first time, I got older while Harry stayed the same.

So maybe when we see the movie, Harry will finally be no longer with us. For a series that was in one sense an epic Bildungsroman and a generation that by many accounts took longer to grow up, perhaps this is a fitting symbol to the end of our generation's youth. It certainly comes at an interesting crossroads in my life. But this isn't about me or about reading too much into the release of a movie. It is however about how Rowling and Harry actually affected us.

For starters the books covered just about everything you could about coming of age. We go through insecure times, through bullying and bad parenting, gaining acceptance, achieving success, bad grades, first loves, searching for employment and all the trials and tribulations that come with true friendships. It almost sounds trivial to state it, but we follow Harry from his bedroom in the cupboard underneath the stairs to savior of the Wizarding world. However in between, Rowling touches on just about everything else. Among the topics that are prominently and liberally examined include racism, government, media, war, sports, legal systems, education and fundamentals such as love, power, religion, free will and of course, death. This entire Wizarding world that she creates is a full functioning entity complete with laws governing the nature of magic and laws instituted by the Ministry of Magic. Her writing style, while never of Shakespearean elegance, spanned the gamut from page-turning thrilling, to subtle mysterious, to downright simple and funny. I don't think Rowling gets enough credit for her dialogues, so many of which are spot on, or her humor. Outside of comical writers like Douglas Adams, Rowling is legitimately one of the funniest writers I've read and the Weasley twins two of the best comic characters.

Now I don't want to exaggerate the influence of Harry Potter. 450 million copies of the series have been sold, which is a lot, but if you do the math, 450 million / 7 * 1.5 (my guess for # of readers per book) you're looking at just about 100 million readers worldwide, or 1 in 70 of the world population. The bulk of these readers are most likely distributed between the US and UK around my age group, although the worldwide impact of Harry Potter is well-documented. The book has been translated into 67 languages including Basque, Faroese, Khmer, Mongolian and Ancient Greek. I can personally speak to its spread in Hong Kong and India, and because translations all came out after the English version, Harry Potter and the Order of the Phoenix became the first ever English-language book to top the best-sellers chart in France. I know plenty of people that didn't like it, or outgrew it. I also know plenty of people who throw phrases like Muggle and boggart in normal conversation and have learned from the books that "death is but the next great adventure." I'm not an English professor, but I understand if the books are disparaged as popular fiction and not to be compared to the works of Hemingway, Joyce and Fitzgerald. But I also know that the books are well written, and that times have changed. The masses have become more educated and maybe nowadays a digestable work can still be a classic.

In all, my favorite book was the Half-Blood Prince, followed by Prisoner of Azkaban. My least favorite was Goblet of Fire (you'll see why below). I'm not a huge fan of the movies in general, but they have their moments. In almost every moment, there were chapters towards the end where I literally would have had to be pried away from the pages. No book was without surprises.

Finally, I want to write about Joanne Rowling. If you asked me any time in the past decade the three people in the world I'd most want to have dinner with, the world's first ever billionaire author would have been included every time. Her speech at the Harvard '08 graduation is one of the most inspirational I've ever seen, and has gotten me through many a rough morning. I can tell from that and her writing that she is truly a great woman, having persevered through incredible challenges while never learning her idealistic nature. Because she wrote most of her books there, I consider Edinburgh to be an inspiring city and made a "pilgrimage" there. Even more incredible than her books is her own personal story, her modern day rags to riches story. I would seriously like nothing more than to meet her.

Fun facts about the Harry Potter series:
-Hermione was not a familiar name to most readers initially, and most of us didn't know how to pronounce her correctly. I remember saying Her-mee-own for the first 2 books. In the 4th book, Hermione actually pronounces her name in the book, which I'm convinced is in order to fix all the fans butchering her name.
-The same book features the biggest plot hole. The whole point of the Triwizard Tournament eventually is revealed to be a massive plot to get Harry to touch the Triwizard Cup, which is actually a portkey. This massive plot took months to develop and could have gone wrong in any number of ways. Meanwhile, a portkey can be literally ANYTHING, and Barty Crouch posing as Mad-Eye Moody could have created a portkey at dozens of points during the year. This book features many stories and characters that have no relevance to the larger series plot, and so while it was great to read at the time, it rereads the worst and is my least favorite book.
-In the 6th book, Horace Slughorn calls Ron "Rupert" by mistake, a likely reference to Rupert Grint who portrays him in the movies.
-Ireland's win in the Quidditch World Cup may have convinced me to study abroad there.
-The code to get into the Ministry of Magic via telephone booth is 62442, which can spell Magic on a phone.
-Harry and Rowling are both born on July 31.
-Platform 9 3/4 is now an actual tourist attract in King's Cross station.

Thursday, July 7, 2011

Ad-libbing liberal sentiments

I read a really interesting article today about multiculturalism in Europe and the pitfalls of various policies to either incorporate or destroy multiculturalism. I have quite a lot of views on the matter, but I still need to sort them out. In the meantime, I do just want to write about a few other views that I feel very strongly about. This isn't like a manifesto or anything, but I do feel the need to talk about some pressing social issues.

Same Sex Marriage
As a Bostonian living in Washington DC, I've spent nearly the entirety of my life surrounded by liberals, including my gay best friend. The culture that I'm surrounded by is one where displaying homophobia is a cardinal sin and thus homophobes, not homosexuals, are the ones who are alienated and disparaged. Same sex couples don't really surprise anybody in the city anymore, something that might not have been true even 10 years ago. Still though, it's not an easy step coming out and most who do have difficult stories, often dealing with family members.

I guess I can't speak for large parts of this country, but certainly here the LGBTQ community is quite accepted. And yet, once this word "marriage" comes out, much opposition arises, often from religious conservatives. It destroys the sanctity of marriage, ruins the institution of a family. As someone with strong religious conviction about the sanctity of marriage, I nonetheless come to the opposite conclusion and would like to espouse a view that I just don't hear very much. Marriage is supposed to be sacred because it is the ultimate goal of a relationship. Human romantic relationships are supposed to be about connecting two individuals as soundly as possible, emotionally and physically. Idealistically, I believe that relationships are not about having fun or messing around, but finding someone you love more than yourself and will continue to in perpetuity. Now this doesn't mean you have to approach every single relationship as a potential engagement, and everyone has to practice or learn from failed relationships, but I don't believe in a long-term relationship with someone whom you know is not a potential spouse. So taking away the possibility of marriage among same-sex couples means that they have nothing to shoot for. There is no reason to hold out for the right person, or to deny oneself sex until marriage because there is no marriage coming. And so this only encourages more promiscuous behavior and less stability. You can't just say, oh let's have our own marriage even if it's not legal. Societal recognition is important - it provides outside pressure for you to make a marriage work, instead of just running away

from problems. Marriage is a vital, holy sacrament, and to deny it to fellow humans is to deny part of their humanity.

One argument I've heard is that gays and straights all have the same rights. Both a straight person and a gay person can marry someone of the opposite sex, and neither can marry someone of the same sex. I think this argument is stupid - it implies that a gay person should try to marry someone of the opposite sex even if there is no love and attraction there, perhaps for the intentions of raising a traditional family. This demeans the sacrament of marriage even more! Marriage is difficult because it's so hard to find someone whom you will love forever. To find someone like this without any physical attraction? I believe that's impossible. I think a homosexual marrying someone of the opposite sex for the however noble intention of raising a family is as big a sham marriage as someone marrying an old tycoon for their money.

Immigration Reform/DREAM Act
I only became aware of this issue in the spring of my senior year while on the board of the Asian American Student Alliance. Beforehand, I had no idea what the term immigration reform even meant. Then I saw the documentary Papers, about high school students who had been brought to America illegally as a young child or baby, and grown up entirely as Americans. However without documentation, they find themselves in a sticky situation after high school. Applying to college is a huge hurdle with a social-security number usually required on applications. Some schools are understanding now and won't ask if you can't provide one, but you still aren't eligible for any federal student aid. You can't get a passport, can't get a driver's license and are often forced to cheat the system to find legal employment. The trials and tribulations of a super successful illegal immigrant were recently published by Jose Antonio Vargas, the Philippines-born Pultizer prize winner who shocked parts of the world last month. The documentary detailed smart, ambitious and successful high school students who had their American dreams brought to a crashing halt upon graduation in tear-jerking ways. Many face deportation to a country they have never known, without being able to apply for reentry for many years. The DREAM Act offers to give permanent residency (and pave the road to citizenship) to relatively high achieving illegals, high school grads without a criminal record, who were brought here young.

I'm not a policy expert and this isn't a policy proposal. I don't know how to get the DREAM Act to pass and I don't even think it does enough. I just very passionately stand for the principle that we all share this world together and no one should face such a significantly harder path than I faced just because they don't have papers. Like I've said before when talking about Obama's birth certificate, no one can positively know where they're born or have any control over it either. So I really don't see any difference between myself and most people who the DREAM Act would affect, except that I applied to any school I wanted to and have traveled to over 25 countries and never thought twice about it. I know the story of a friend of a friend Juan Gomez, Georgetown MSB '11, whose parents were deported to Colombia when he was in college and he was only barely allowed to stay in school (read here). The problems that he faced dwarf the ones facing his fellow students and friends. And I even know the story of my parents and my auntie's daughter Eva. My parents both came from Hong Kong to study in the United States, and had to stay in school to keep their visa active. They very likely would not have stayed in the US or become citizens had my mom's older sister not married an American, paving the way for my mom to receive a green card. My parents relationship then was rushed into a marriage upon my dad's graduating from design school, else he would have beeb deported to West Africa. Things could very easily have been very different for me. Eva came to the US from Hong Kong at 13 or 14, and excelled in some of the worst public schools in Boston. I don't know if she was a legal immigrant, but when it came time to apply to college, she took the huge risk of going to Canada to legally apply as a foreign student, knowing that if she was denied, she wouldn't be able to return to the US and even finish her senior year of high school. Luckily she got in and eventually graduated from Harvard, but difficulties with getting a green card dogged her for many years and really limited her career.

The opponents of the DREAM Act don't want to give illegal immigrants any incentive to break our laws and abuse our taxpayer services. This is our country and they have their country, and they shouldn't be allowed to just come and mooch of us. What these opponents don't ever seem to think about is that the life of an illegal immigrant is not glamorous. Many get paid under the table and work in terrible conditions with no rights or benefits. They can't complain about being forced to work 16 hours because their bosses would then report them to the authorities. They often don't speak English and spend a lot of their time being scared. And they choose this life. Does that give you any idea of what kind of life they would be living in their native countries? If conditions are so bad and hopeless where you are from that you would risk everything you have to live the average illegal immigrant life, I'm perfectly willing to give you a chance and let you drink from our public water fountains. We're all of the same world here, and the congressmen who are against immigration reform are the ones who don't realize how lucky they are to have been born in one of the world's greatest countries. So our country needs to be less xenophobic and remember that the original illegal immigrants in this continent were Caucasians from England, Spain, France and the Netherlands. I think their descendants should be more sympathetic to their fellow illegal immigrants.

Lastly, just a couple of notes about semantics. I do believe that words have a lot of power and that although the use of a word by society can legitimize it, there are still words that shouldn't be used in a certain context. I have been guilty of saying that something is "retarded" or "gay" meaning stupid, and it has definitely entered mainstream vernacular. It is also wrong. As long as "retarded" refers to the mentally-challenged and "gay" refers to homosexual, we cannot also use it to refer to stupid. I do apologize for using it and I'm really grateful to most gays I know that they usually don't take serious offense to getting slurred, but I'm going to do my best to not use it. On a lighter note, I really don't like the way the words "exotic" and especially "ethnic" are used. You hear terms like exotic clothing and ethnic food thrown around a lot, and I'm like what the hell does that mean. "Exotic" clothing typically refers to something worn by a culture we don't understand. Well to people of that culture, that clothing is simply normal clothing. If people refer to Chinese slippers or robes as exotic in front me, I'm honestly legitimately confused because they're commonplace. If you are white, would it not surprise you to hear khakis and jeans being called exotic? But they certainly can seem that way to certain people. Maybe you can say that something is exotic to you, but let's restrict its usage in public signs to things exotic to all of us, like 3-headed green aliens. Ethnic is even worse. Ethnic food here means food that we don't associate with white people. I've seen it associated with Middle Eastern, South Asian, East Asian, Central American, African and South American cuisines, but never with German, French, Italian or Eastern European cuisines. Well German, French, Italian, those are all ethnicities with very distinctive and well-respected cuisines. Why are those not considered ethnic? Very subtly there is an underlying assumption that white is the standard, and everything else is "ethnic." No. Stop using the word ethnic like that. We live in far too diverse a country to have such a term be so commonly accepted.