When planning where to travel with friends, exploring recent war and genocide history is typically not the deciding factor. However, my friend Sam and I were surprised to discover a mutual interest in understanding the Bosnian civil war, a topic I daresay few of my other friends would be interested in, and we decided to make Sarajevo the focal point of a trip to Eastern Europe (piggybacking off my week in Portugal with family). We met up in Budapest, and originally I wanted to start this blog from there, but so much happened in the Balkans (the former Yugoslavia) that with apologies to the great Hungarian capital, I have decided to skip over Budapest entirely. Our jaunt through territory that had passed through many empires would be steeped in history with a side of modern day fascism.
Crossing the Hungarian border got us some perfunctory questions and a passport stamp. As we entered Croatia, a line of trucks a half mile long faced us, with bored drivers standing outside their trucks, waiting for whatever inspections were needed to enter Hungary. We gave this horrific line a passing glance of curiosity, unaware of what it foreboded.
Croatia is oddly shaped, like a C. The most well known parts of Croatia, including Split and Dubrovnik, border the Adriatic sea at the bottom of the C. Our trip passed through the top of the C, a region known as Slavonia, with its capital Osijek our planned stop. Osijek boasts an old Habsurg-era stone fort, complete with a dry moat. The fort interior now holds restaurants, bars, parks and our hotel. The city also had a charming trolley and old town square with no obvious tourism - it really felt like an unexplored gem. I wondered if the hotel concierge / bartender was at all curious why these two Americans of different ethnicities had wandered through this town, but when I engaged with him, he displayed absolutely no interest.
We continued through slow rural mountain roads into Bosnia and Herzegovina where signs alternated between the Latin alphabet and ћирилица. Our map showed a curious dotted inner border indicating we were in the Republika Srpska part of Bosnia. I spent much of the ride researching what that even meant, and only then realized I had fundamentally misunderstood the outcome of the Bosnian civil war.
A college course on Europe and Nationalism assigned us a book of poetry written during the war by a Bosnian poet besieged in Sarajevo. I remember asking at the outset how the different sides, who all looked the same and spoke the same language, even recognized who the enemy was. How could there possibly be genocide amongst these white people? The professor said I'd understand after reading the book. During the pandemic in 2020, I found the book, thought back to my question, and realized I still didn't know the answer. So I re-read Sarajevo Blues and got absorbed and kept researching. I learned that the different empires that had dominated the Balkans over the years, namely the Austro-Hungarians, the Ottomans and the Venetians, had created borders that split these people up. Political borders can forge new identities independent of ethnolinguistics - as a Hong Konger, I get this. To oversimplify, the folks living within Austro-Hungarian and Venetian territory, called Croatia, became mainly Catholic while those living within Ottoman territory, called Bosnia and Herzegovina, largely adopted Islam. The territory of Serbia changed hands between these empires but achieved independence in 1815, with its inhabitants overwhelmingly following Eastern Orthodox Christianity.
Nationalism was sweeping through Europe and the independent Serbs wanted to liberate their fellow South Slavs from their imperial yokes and create a Greater Serbia, with them in charge. World War I started in Sarajevo when Serb nationalists, who might not have had direct ties to the Serbian government, assassinated the heir to the Austrian throne. The outcome of two world wars eventually did lead to the union of South Slavs in socialist Yugoslavia. By all accounts, though Yugoslavia's capital was Serbia's Belgrade, nationalism was kept in check by the dictator Josip Tito during this time. However, when Tito died, nationalism erupted again. Slovenia, Croatia and Bosnia all wanted to be their own countries, and the idea of Greater Serbia regained popularity. Because there'd been no internal borders during Yugoslavia and identities are fluid, plenty of people who identified as Serb lived in these areas, especially in Bosnia. Serbs were used to being the dominant ethnic group but now faced the prospect of being minorities. When Bosnia declared independence, many of the Bosnian Serbs had been preparing and quickly showed up around Sarajevo with artillery. They nearly conquered the city in the early days of the war, but ultimately settled for an endurance approach with a brutal siege that lasted over 4 years. I learned from this history that the most dangerous people are people formerly in power now facing a loss of that power - a situation very relevant to the United States in 2022.
Sarajevo itself had been a bastion of multiculturalism where Bosnian Muslims, Croats and Serbs had lived side by side. Before World War II there was also a substantial Jewish population. With synagogues, mosques, Catholic and Orthodox churches, Sarajevo was called the Jerusalem of Europe. Though the Yugoslavian wars pitted religions against each other, religion hadn't been such an identity marker in Sarajevo itself, since like most cosmopolitan European cities, atheism had been growing. Many Serbs ended up fighting alongside Muslims during the war, and the Bosnian government was careful to label the other side "Chetniks" or extremist Serbs and avoided demonizing all Serbs. The war was not Muslims vs Orthodox but those who believed in a diverse Bosnia vs Serb nationalists. I learned that identity is all what we choose to make of it - all differences amongst humans are simply ones we've chosen to believe are differences.
Republika Sprska is non-contiguous with very irregular borders and a "capital" in Banja Luka. I had thought that at the tail end of the Bosnian war, US & NATO got involved, bombed the Bosnian Serbs and helped the Bosnian Muslims win the war. In reality, the Dayton Accords peace treaty that ended the war wasn't really a victory for any side. The Dayton Accords carved three autonomous regions in Bosnia more or less based on where the armies were, one to each side and one in the middle that they couldn't decide on. The regions are so autonomous as to be functionally separate countries, with a very weak Federal government. The Dayton Accords also created the unusual position of High Representative, a person chosen by other nations to have total veto power over the Bosnian government. Essentially everyone realized the two sides would fight over legislation and thus implemented an overlord to babysit the country, until they showed they had sufficiently grown up. The current High Representative is a German man who speaks no Bosnian.
All this I was absorbing as we drove past Cyrillic signs in the Republika Srpska. The only flags we saw were the flag of the Republic of Serbia, and the Republika Srpska's similar own flag, both using red/white/blue horizontal bands. Given the history of the war, the refusal to fly the blue and yellow Bosnian flag and insistence on the Serbian flag is asking for a fight. We saw police checkpoints periodically on the road, where a policeman asked for our passports and registration in German before letting us move on with an "alles gute!" Even as outsiders, we felt the tenseness of a frozen conflict.
After two hours on mountainous country roads, we arrived at Srebrenica. In July of 1995, after intense negotiations, Dutch UN Peacekeeping troops handed over the Bosnian Muslims who had been under their protection. Over 8,000 boys and men were separated from the group and methodically murdered by the Bosnian Serbs in what the US recognizes as a genocide. A genocide memorial has been set up over several acres of grassy hills. Reminiscent of the Holocaust memorial in Berlin, gravestone pillars are setup in a grid, each representing one of the slaughtered with an Islamic burial epithet written in Bosnian. Signs in the front were written in Bosnian, English, Turkish and Arabic. Across the street, where the Dutch UN headquarters had been, dilapidated buildings house exhibitions about the massacre. The buildings lacked any markings, and seeing broken windows and empty door frames, I was skeptical that it was a museum at all. I was shocked to find inside a well curated assembly of personal items and video recordings from survivors. It struck me that this memorial was deep within the territory of its perpetrators, the area having been awarded to Bosnian Serbs after they had cleansed it of Muslims. The Bosnian Serbs unsurprisingly showed little interest in maintaining the memorial, evidenced by the near absence of road signs to it. It crossed my mind that the restaurant owner from earlier was old enough to have served in the Serb army. We spent well over an hour in Srebrenica and saw maybe a dozen other visitors, understandable given the remoteness. I wondered if any other memorials in the world could match Srebenica in this unusual combination of being distinguished yet unvisited. 
Finally, in a spectacular sunset drive descending from the mountains, we reached Sarajevo. The city met our expectations. It attracted just the right amount of the right tourists, those who have also put in the requisite Wikipedia research. Minarets and calls to prayer reminded us we were in a predominantly Muslim city, but the nightlife indicated that this was "Islam lite" and still very much a European city. We stayed a block from the Latin Bridge spanning the Miljacka River and the site of Archduke Franz Ferdinand's assassination. A memorial featuring a metal imprint of assassin Gavrilo Princip's position when he fired his gun struck me as a strange glorification of murder. Nonetheless, the site conveyed how this restless, diverse city had been a happening place and would witness so many events of consequence just in the 20th century. Of course, our neighborhood had more to offer than Sarajevo's dark history - a delightful mix of restaurants, shopping, gelato, bakeries and bars made me want to explore every corner and nook. A historic market square called Baščaršija hosted a lovely scene of elderly folk sitting and drinking Turkish coffee in the mornings surrounded by ancient stone buildings.
A guided tour of Sarajevo took us to a damaged and graffitied bobsled trek in the mountains east of the city. Sarajevo had hosted a successful Winter Olympics in 1984, only 8 years before war would engulf those venues. It's a travel hobby of mine to visit Olympic cities and look for Rings or the host stadium, but with Sarajevo, a dilapidated concrete slide seems to better represent the city's Olympic memory. The tour continued to the Tunnel of Hope. With the city besieged and constantly shelled by artillery, an 800m long tunnel was dug underneath the UN-controlled airport runway. The tunnel allowed supplies to be brought in and likely saved the city from capitulation. As the airport runway is still used, most of the tunnel is not made accessible for tourists. We were able to walk through a small authentic stretch, and while it was crouchingly tight, it didn't reach the claustrophobic levels of the Cu Chi tunnels in Vietnam. We continued to the War Childhood Museum, where stories of children during the war were documented. The museum reminded us that when we talk about nationalism, and geopolitics, the effect on people's lives can get lost in the large numbers, but when we are shown war's effect on the innocent individual, we understand better what is truly at stake.
We drove southwest along the gorgeous Neretva River to Mostar. The 5th largest city in Bosnia (technically in Herzegovina), I'd imagined Mostar to be a bit of a random spot with an elegant old bridge. Imagine my surprise when I arrived to find out Mostar is the most popular destination in Bosnia. Old Bridge, or Stari Most in Bosnian, was originally commissioned by Suleiman the Magnificent in 1566. The entire structure of the bridge, included the walking path, soars over the Neretva at such an acute arch that the original builder, so worried it would collapse, prepared for his own funeral after it opened. Instead, Stari Most stood as a wonder for over four centuries until the civil war when Croat forces, not Serbs, destroyed it. Though they claimed the bridge was of strategic military value, the general who ordered it was convicted of a war crime. The bridge was rebuilt in 2004. Now, its every inch and every viewing angle is capitalized, with wall-to-wall restaurant coverage along the riverside. A man was diving off the top of the bridge every couple hours with his accomplice collecting money. Initially confused on where this influx of tourists came from, I realized that Dubrovnik, aka King's Landing, was just over 2 hours away. While the main town square was cobblestoned and charming, the touristy nature made me believe it was designed to look charming. Outside the center of town felt more authentic with many shelled buildings still in ruins, and inexplicably a statue of Bruce Lee in a park. 15 minutes drive away was a Dervish House, built into a cliff alongside where a river enters a cave. Though this was also extremely touristy and I was unable to appreciate the Islamic spirituality of the location, Sam and I did find a rocky hiking path ignored by everyone else that led to scenic views of the valley, and randomly some climbing equipment.
We had decent luck meeting interesting people in the Sarajevo bar scene. A tall German got to talking to me and Sam at the bar, while his girlfriend remained at their table for 15 minutes. Gathering that his girlfriend was Nicaraguan, I asked if we could join them at their table. The German replied, "sure, but uh do you talk the Spanish?" An hour later he remarked, "I definitely wasn't expecting the two Americans to speak Spanish...in Sarajevo." We learned that they were waiting for a Schengen visa to process and had somehow survived 5 days in the boring Banja Luka. The next night, after failing to strike up any conversations, a group of young Bosnian guys approached us out of nowhere. What transpired was tremendous for we had lots of questions for them and they had lots of questions for us. Some question examples were:
"You could've chosen Spain, Italy, France, Germany - why did you come to Bosnia? What do you think of Joe Biden? Do most Americans have guns?"
And my questions for them included:
"Who did you root for in the World Cup when Croatia made the final? Would you root for Serbia if they were in the final? Do most people drink here? Do you think there will be another war here in your lifetimes?" One of them responded, "When we're in the Balkans, we all hate each other. When we're outside the Balkans, we realize we're all the same. I rooted for Croatia and I could root for Serbia." With regards to drinking, Bosnian Muslims either drink alcohol or smoke hookah, with very little overlap. Avoiding pork was far more commonly followed. I enjoyed tremendously watching how they interacted - I was shocked to see how much internet meme culture, jokes that I thought were English-specific, was part of their lives. One guy demonstrated via meme about how his friend was a ladies' man, with a picture of a man videochatting 50 phones. The tallest of the group, a good looking guy with glasses and a crew cut named Harun explained his position as one of 4 Bosnians at a US sponsored army training program in Turkey. He said there would only be war again if the US allowed there to be a war.
We got up early the next morning, unfortunately smelling of Bosnia's lack of indoor smoking regulations, and set out for Belgrade. Sam had messaged his Serbian-American friend Igor when we'd previously driven along the border, and in an incredible coincidence Igor told us he was currently in Belgrade. We changed our plans to swing by Belgrade. Igor had moved from Belgrade to the US when he was 5, but he spoke Serbian fluently and knew Belgrade pretty well. As he took us through historical squares, respected restaurants and a Roman-era fortress, I recognized in him a joy of showing Americans a country he knew intimately, a joy I shared when friends visited me in Hong Kong. He gave us a culinary tour with cevapi, which I recognized as the barbecue plate from the Putin restaurant, the soft yet crispy pastry borek and a dessert shop with delicious knedle, potato doughballs filled with chocolate or fruit. He explained how Serbian soccer was talented but disappointed in big tournaments, how much people revere Nikola Tesla (born in Croatia to Serb family) and NBA MVP Nikola Jokić, and how they also take credit for Slovenian Luka Dončić who "has a very Serbian name."
Mercifully, a dual carriage highway connects Belgrade and Budapest, and we didn't have to deal with the hairpin curves through Bosnian mountains on a hangover. The most notable sight were numerous signs in English saying "Kosovo is Serbia." While we had been primed to look out for anti-Bosnian sentiment, it was another conflict with NATO involvement that still riles up nationalism. The 1998-1999 war with ethnic Albanians trying to breakaway had ended in NATO bombing Belgrade and Kosovo becoming de facto independent, although it seems none of the highway signs agree. I thought about how much pride played into these conflicts, with people willing to kill each other over perceived historical wrongs.
As we approached the Hungarian border, Google directed us off the highway and onto a small road where all the cars were stopped. I was confused when a woman exited her car with Slovakian plates and took her dog for a walk. We had never expected to wait at the border. I walked out as well, and in addition to the hundred cars ahead of us, abandoned buildings and barbed wire gave me an uneasy feeling. Piles of litter contained old clothes and broken tents hinted at a former refugee camp of sorts. Suddenly I realized we were "entering Europe." It had not dawned us the entire trip that we had left the EU - Bosnia and Serbia are not member nations. Hungary has famously been unwelcoming to migrants at its border, and this crossing of Horgos had been the site of clashes in 2015. I suspected that our lengthy border wait was both typical and planned. It took us two and a half hours to get to the customs officers (who seemed genuinely surprised to see American passports) and two minutes to get past them. We finally made it back to Budapest where we checked into an airport hotel, returned the car, and fled with our tails between our legs, more knowledgable of the potency of Balkan conflicts and moonshine brandy.
